MILAN — Thom Browne is the latest high-profile international designer joining the Milan Men’s Fashion Week calendar for the event’s upcoming edition slated for June 19 to 23.
Following the arrival of Paul Smith last year and the return of Ralph Lauren with a runway format in January, the spring 2027 menswear showcase will welcome Browne, who has most recently unveiled his men’s collections across the world in New York, Paris, Florence as part of Pitti Uomo, as well as, most recently for fall 2026, in San Francisco during the run-up to the Super Bowl.
The news of Browne’s decision to show in Milan was first reported exclusively by WWD in March.
The show is scheduled for June 22 at 3 p.m. CET at the 18th-century neoclassical Palazzo Serbelloni.
Japanese designer Shinyakozuka leads a pack of up-and-coming designer brands also decamping to Milan for the first time. One of last January’s guest designers at the Pitti Uomo trade fair, the brand is to present its collection on June 22, right before Browne.
Sinyakozuka men’s fall 2026
Courtesy of Sinyakozuka
The other talents include Swedish designer Martin Quad and Garcias, helmed by Colombian but Italy-based designer Nicolas Martin Garcia. The former will kick off the show schedule on June 19 at 3 p.m. CET and the latter will show on June 20.
“Milan Fashion Week is an open platform that creates cultural and economic value for both Italy and the rest of the world. We serve as an international window into fashion and, right now, into menswear, which is an incredibly important sector for the country as the bulk of high-end menswear is made here,” said Carlo Capasa, president of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italian as he unveiled the calendar here on Thursday.
Among the Italian heavyweights, Zegna is absent, having decided to show its spring 2027 collection in Los Angeles on June 5, as reported. This is the second time the menswear powerhouse has ditched Milan for destination shows, after parading its spring 2026 lineup in Dubai last year.
Giorgio Armani, which is shifting to an evening time slot on June 22, de facto wrapping up the week’s days of physical events, will jointly unveil the spring menswear collection by Leo Dell’Orco, alongside a selection of cruise 2027 women’s looks by Silvana Armani, a first for the company.
As reported, since earlier this year, sibling brand Emporio Armani will present its collections in a coed format twice a year during women’s fashion weeks.
Prada and Dolce & Gabbana are retaining their usual slots on June 20 and 21, respectively. Meanwhile, Dsquared2 is skipping a runway show and opting for a presentation instead on June 19, following last January’s viral show starring “Heated Rivarly”’s Hudson Williams.
As part of the international pack, Ralph Lauren will return to the calendar wrapping up the first show day, June 19, while Paul Smith will close the day on June 20.
Backstage at Paul Smith fall 2026.
Jonathan Daniel Pryce/WWD
Overall, the calendar unveiled Thursday includes 75 events, with 16 runway shows and 44 presentations.
The latter includes the return of Piacenza 1733 as well as Caruso, now under new owner MondeVita Italy Srl, part of Mondevo Group, after the tailoring specialist was sold by Lanvin Group last February. Both brands had most recently unveiled their collections primarily at Pitti Uomo. Massimo Alba is also back on the official calendar with a presentation.
New to the presentations calendar are jewelry brand Dodo, Paolo de Vivo’s knitwear brand De Nobiliary Particle and Sergio Davila.
A partner to Milan Fashion Week and its organizer Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, Fondazione Sozzani will host presentations and shows for a packed roster of emerging brands, including Domenico Orefice, Simon Cracker, Bottega, Bernard, Bunhova by Bungaro, Grossi, Koday, Materia, Moarno, Mtl Studio, Sagaboi, Tolotta and Zenam, in addition to Quad and Pronounce, the latter marking its 10th anniversary this year.
A preview of the Polo Ralph Lauren fall 2026 collection photographed on Jan. 14 in Florence.
Fabrizio Martinelli/WWD
The upcoming edition of fashion week comes against a slower-than-expected recovery and still uncertain prospects for the menswear and fashion sectors at large. According to consolidated data provided by the Italian fashion governing body on Thursday, sales of the country’s fashion totaled 92.8 billion euros in 2025, down 3.1 percent year-on-year.
“We’ve lost about 10 billion euros compared to 2023 [when sales stood at 101.3 billion euros], which is equivalent to the size of an entire industry. This is why we need to understand how to move forward, facing issues like tariffs, a weaker dollar, slower-than-expected rebound in China,” Capasa said.
Last year exports were down 4.9 percent to 86.6 billion euros, with leading importers of Italian fashion including France, the U.S., Germany and China. The former three showed resilience, with exports to France substantially flat, and up 2.5 percent and 1.5 percent, to the U.S. and Germany, respectively. They were down 14.8 percent in China.
“We’ll be asking the government for specific measures to support exports, to tackle currency depreciations, tariffs and macroeconomic challenges. We’re dealing with two major conflicts, including the crisis in Iran, which is impacting energy prices, the effects of which we may not see immediately but will likely be felt within the next six to 18 months,” Capasa said.
Faced with ongoing geopolitical tensions, especially the war in the Gulf, preliminary figures for the first two months of 2026 showed mixed signs. Based on this, Camera della Moda forecast year-end sales in 2026 to amount to 91.4 billion euros, down 1.5 percent versus 2025, with exports also expected to decrease 1.5 percent to 85.3 billion euros.
“Of course, these numbers could change and improve depending on the resolution of the Gulf crisis, a region where the fashion industry had been thriving, and the impact of rising energy costs. If everything is resolved by June, we could potentially break even or see a positive growth rate, fueled by market rebound,” Capasa said.
On the sideline of the calendar presentation, Capasa announced the finalists for the 2026 Camera Moda Fashion Trust Grant, promoted by the namesake nonprofit organization established in 2017 by the fashion governing body to support young Italian or Italy-based talents in developing their businesses with financial aid, as well as business mentoring programs and tutoring.
They include Act N.1, Andrea Brocca Alta Moda, Des Phemmes, Domenico Orefice, Grossi, Institution, Lutchmiah, Materia, Pecoranera, Unknown Artisan and Untitled Artworks.
The event will be held on May 28 at the Fabbrica del Vapore venue to assign three grants valued at 70,000 euros each.
The jury panel this year includes, among other names, Roberta Benaglia, chief executive officer and founding partner of private equity fun Style Capital, the event’s patron; Marco Bizzarri; Moncler’s CEO Leo Rongone; Claudio Antonioli, founder and CEO of Antonioli Group; Carolina Cucinelli, vice president and co-creative director at Brunello Cucinelli; Carolina Castiglioni, Plan C’s creative director; designer Sabato De Sarno; Sara Sozzani Maino, a Camera Moda Fashion Trust advisory board member, as well as Warly Tomei and Umberta Gnutti Beretta, the organization’s cofounders and co-chairs, and Capasa.
