From indigo dyeing to fading, denim’s iconic look and feel relies on chemistry. But while the signature aesthetics of jean treatments have held steady, the solutions and techniques used are shifting as the industry seeks to reduce its footprint.
Florence, Italy-based chemical company and research lab Soko Chimica is innovating denim processes to reduce water, chemical and energy consumption while also supporting operational efficiencies and product quality.
Luca Braschi
Here, Luca Braschi, marketing and technology manager at Soko, shares how the company is shifting water’s state for streamlined washing and cultivating a “collaborative ecosystem” for supply chain-wide developments.
SJ DENIM: The denim industry has long focused on reducing water impact. Why is Soko’s Hydrogel a game-changer in this area?
Luca Braschi: While traditional sustainability efforts usually focus on tweaking chemical formulas, Soko has reimagined the most fundamental element: water itself. By transforming water into a high-viscosity gel, we’ve created an entirely new treatment environment.
Hydrogel is a simple “one product, one process” solution that delivers the coveted stone-bleached effect in a single bath. By collapsing an eight-step process into just one, we save up to 85 percent of water consumption while also eliminating the redundant rinses, heating cycles and refills that characterize traditional manufacturing.
It’s not just a product; it’s a radical simplification that delivers up to 50 percent time savings and a drastic reduction in energy consumption. A game-changer truly becomes real when it also provides clear economic benefits and boosts productivity.
How does this gel environment support durability and expand product development opportunities in denim?
L.B.: In conventional washing, water acts as a deep-penetrating medium that causes mechanical stress and loss of fabric strength. Hydrogel introduces the “protective bubble” concept. The high-viscosity gel ensures that active ingredients work primarily on the surface, preserving the core of the fiber. This move from aggressive washing to intelligent finishing results in stronger, longer-lasting denim. Because
we minimize fiber degradation, Hydrogel opens the door for a wider range of sustainable or delicate fibers—such as Tencel™ or recycled blends—that previously struggled to withstand the rigors of traditional heavy bleaching.
How is Soko accelerating innovation through its Projects Division?
L.B.: The Soko Projects Division is not just a support function; it is a central R&D hub where the entire supply chain comes together. By connecting brand designers, fabric mills and garment manufacturers, we foster a collaborative ecosystem that enables the development of tailor-made projects aligned with each client’s specific needs. Fabric development and finishing expertise converge, unlocking both creative and technical opportunities that a fragmented supply chain would not be able to achieve.
This integrated approach ensures that innovation is embedded into the garment from the very beginning— starting at the fiber level. We don’t simply deliver a product; we offer a dedicated platform for experimentation, technical development and continuous support throughout the entire production process.
Could you share a success story from your Projects Division?
L.B.: Over the past few years, the Projects Division has provided targeted solutions that elevate the sustainability standards of manufacturing, resolve process challenges, explore innovative techniques to enhance fabric performance and inspire designers with creative collections.
The recent collaboration between Soko, Adriano Goldschmied and fabric mill Pioneer Denim has had a significant impact on the Projects Division’s ability to generate sustainable and creative synergies. Goldschmied created the concept and design, while the fabric— featuring a cotton-wool blend— was exclusively developed through the craftsmanship of Pioneer Denim. Soko applied finishing treatments using Hydrogel technology to preserve the fabric and achieve vintage wash effects, significantly reducing water consumption and enhancing the overall sustainability footprint.
What is on the horizon for Soko?
L.B.: Our business is constantly evolving, and it is essential to keep up with these changes. In the coming years, the role of the chemical supplier will shift, becoming more service-oriented and acting as a link between brands and manufacturers, supporting them with know-how and research through the transitions required by the market.
At the same time, in terms of chemical development, we will continue to explore new, uncharted paths to deliver increasingly innovative solutions.
Click here to learn more about Soko Chimica.
