The uncertainty surrounding tariffs was a top issue for buyers and brands at the Coterie by Informa trade show that returned to New York last week, with 82 shoe brands participating.
Among the brands in the overall lineup were Frye Footwear, Andre Assous, Betsey Johnson, Gola Classics, Bruno Magli, Dolce Vita, Donal Pliner, Emu Australia, Marc Fisher Ltd., Sychelles Footwear, Steve Madden, Vaneli, Charleston Shoe Co., and JSlides Footwear, among others. (There were 18 newcomers.)
Purvi Kanji, a Coterie vice president, said the team was focused on curation — leveraging proprietary trend insights to ensure the show floor reflected both current demand and forward-looking opportunities.
“In footwear specifically, we prioritize a mix of established brands and emerging designers that complement adjacent categories, ensuring buyers can build cohesive assortments across apparel and accessories,” Kanji said.
For Fall/Winter ’26, Kanji said buyers were gravitating toward elevated classics and functional design, such as updated silhouettes as slingback heels, high vamp pumps and statement boots with refined hardware or two-tone detailing.
Against the economic backdrop, tariffs and broader economic pressures were top of mind.
“Many brands are actively working to mitigate these challenges by refining their pricing strategies — either absorbing a portion of the increased costs or optimizing their supply chains,” Kanji said. “We’re also seeing some brands explore alternative manufacturing partners in regions with more favorable trade conditions. At the same time, buyers are becoming increasingly focused on value, versatility, and long-term product viability when making purchase decisions.”
At Steve Madden, there were a wide range of options, from platforms and boots to slingbacks. Steve Madden, the brand’s founder and design chief, was a surprise visitor on Wednesday. He pointed to the Juanita tall shaft platform boot, which he described as “so much fun for fall.” The boot wholesales for $110 and is expected to retail for $229.
Never one to hold back on his opinions, Madden riffed on a variety of topics, although tariffs seemed to be the key focus. He spoke about the uncertainties of doing business not knowing what the duty will be, how unfair the total levy is on footwear and that he expects that the 10 percent imposed by Trump under Section 122 [of the 174 Trade Act] eventually will climb to 15 percent. At one point, he even charged that Trump is acting like a “dictator,” an opinion that others who decried the President’s tariff policy have said as well.
Steven Weinreb, president of Gola USA, said it was hard to say how the strike-down of IEEPA duties would impact his brand. “Things are changing from day to day. It certainly makes future planning more challenging,” he said, adding that he’s “given up on expectations” on what may happen next with American duties. “Our sales are still very strong, even with the price increases we have had to place on some of our product, but the tariffs are certainly not helping things.”
Although the U.K.-based, athletic heritage brand is “very well established” in the U.S., Weinreb said it also has a “loyal customer base that is growing rapidly.” Female customers are showing much interest in lower-profile styles, while male consumers are mostly interested in classic heritage styles.
The brand, which was acquired by RG Barry this past January, appeals to the style-conscious consumer who values authentic heritage storytelling in a modern, trend-relevant way, he said.
Christine Fuchs, the general manager for luxury at Vida Shoes International Inc., said Andre Assous’ strongest categories for women continue to be espadrilles, raffia sandals, wedges and elevated flats. The core for men are loafers and casual lace-ups in soft leathers and nubucks.
“We are also seeing increased interest in sleek, lightweight sneakers that bridge casual and refined, offering versatility without feeling overly sporty,” she said.
For Fall ’26, customers are gravitating towards clogs, loafers and casual boots, Fuchs noted. She said that the U.S. is the brand’s largest and “most strategic market, representing the majority of our wholesale and direct-to-consumer business.”
The brand also has national distribution through department stores, specialty retailers and its own e-commerce channel. And for dress shoes, there’s been a “measured shift” toward more elevated silhouettes, such as low to mid wedges, platform espadrilles and dress-leaning sandals.
“Our dress boots/booties are the top items selling at this show,” she noted. Fuchs also said that while flats remain important, customers are also responding to styles that offer “a bit of height without sacrificing comfort.”
Fuchs said there’s still much uncertainty regarding tariffs since there’s been no definitive guidance on how the EU may respond or adjust policy in the near terms. While Vida continues to monitor developments and keep in close contact with partners and suppliers, its main focus is on “maintaining flexibility in our sourcing and price strategies while wait for clearer direction from policymakers,” Fuchs said.
Cynthia Perez, an account executive at Vida Shoes, was at Coterie with the brand’s Rebecca Minkoff account. She noted that buyers have been gravitating toward boots made from suede and kidskins with stud details. Also a favorite is the “slouch look” with a taller shaft that give the boot a “Boho chic” vibe, Perez noted.
Price points for wholesale and suggested retail have yet to be finalized, but some of the boots are expected to have a suggested retail price of $220. The markup is in the range of 60 percent.
According to Perez, discussions on pricing have been impacted by tariffs. Her firm has been working very closely with factories and their retail partners so all three are absorbing a portion of the additional duties. “Some retailers have been adamant about hitting certain price points, while some have been flexible about taking a [small] hit and not price as high [as originally planned,” she said.
But given the U.S. Supreme Court ruling, she said the current landscape is “very uncertain,” as no one knows what’s next after the Section 122 duties expire on July 24.
Some retailers were looking at the line for this spring because they were buying for deliveries that begin in March. “Buyers from catalogs were putting in orders because they have to buy for the season ahead since they have work to do to get those catalogs in place and sent out before the season starts,” Perez said.
At Seychelles Footwear, sales representative Claudia Remijio said a sneaker-style clog from its vegan BC collection, called the Evolution BC, was so popular last fall that the brand brought it back this year. The made-in-China style wholesales for $48 and retails for $99.
While there was some impact from tariffs, Remijio said: “We have amazing partners that we work together with to keep pricing where it should be for our consumer.”
Melissa Jordon, the sales representative for the U.S. distributor of the Spanish Verbenas brand and Italian AS98 label, said there was a major pivot last spring after Trump announced his reciprocal tariff plans. Some prices were already in place for the lines and there was no opportunity for any sharing of the higher costs as a result of the new duties.
Verbenas was highlighting a wide selection of women’s low top running shoes featuring different fabrications and color options. In contrast, leather boots were the focus at AS98 — some featured taller shafts that had special detailing or wrapping on the outside.
At Blondo, sales representative Nicole MacLaren said tariffs have made “pricing hard,” for its waterproof boots, given all the uncertainties. The Hylia ankle boot as well as styles with fringe details and slouch styling were getting the attention of buyers.
