Creative director Matteo Tamburini is increasingly confident in shaping his vision for Tod’s and presented a collection for fall that was more experimental and assured. Dubbed “Italian Signature,” for its new personalization lettering and local craft, it also reflected the designer’s stamp.
Leather, a Tod’s signifier, continued to be central to the lineup but Tamburini developed it in new and intriguing ways, such as foulard dresses with intarsia and graphic patchworks inspired by Sterling Ruby murals. Dresses also came printed with snowy landscapes by the Japanese photographer Daido Moriyama.
Leather appeared to be washed and crinkled on a cool jacket, and a quilted bomber was shown in aged calfskin, adding a touch of lived-in that Tamburini sought for the collection.
There were a few ‘90s references, such as the power dress, exquisitely tailored, and a new version of pony hair – a material that has returned this season on Milan’s runways – seen on capes, pea coats, and Gommino sneakers.
Tamburini played with the contrast of enveloping volumes against more fitted pieces, with shortened sleeves and a defined waist, seen also on the knits – “almost as if you had grown into them,” he said backstage.
Oversized trench coats reflected the cocooning feeling of many garments, worn over tight stretch wool breeches inspired by skiwear.
The palette ranged from rich natural tones – burnt caramel, ginger and chocolate – to black and white graphic accents, and the collection looked cohesive and strong.
Accessories were plenty, from Tod’s Wave Bag, enriched with saddlery topstitching, to the T Timeless Bag in nappa, aged calfskin or pony. The Di Bag returned in a new bowling version.
Tamburini connected the collection with lettering in metal on slim belts cinching trenches and jackets, allowing personalization with one’s initials – as seen on Minnie Driver and Lily James attending the show. After all, “this is a way to say ‘I am here,’ since online communication flattens everything,” said chairman Diego Della Valle, who sees customization offering a way to stand out.
