Leather, Shearling and Velvet Entice Retailers

Retailers felt designers delivered a strong New York Fashion Week with plenty of trends to be excited about.

There was definitely a more polished and dressed-up feeling on the runways, and leathers and shearlings were everywhere. Voluminous outerwear, lots of layering, velvet, lace, bows and fringe were pervasive. Colors were mostly muted browns, with grays, ivory, black and pops of oxblood and red prevalent in many collections.

Outerwear had a very strong showing throughout many of the collections, in particular Altuzarra, Ralph Lauren, Khaite and Tory Burch. Michael Kors’ 45th anniversary show, Ralph Lauren’s show, Altuzarra, and Khaite’s fashion show were cited as particular standouts.

Retailers were especially excited about the women-led brands which stood out this season, such as Kallmeyer, Diotima, Tory Burch, Khaite, Ashlyn, Heirlome, TWP, Colleen Allen, Fforme and Maria McManus.

Here’s what the retailers had to say:

David Thielebeule, fashion director, Bloomingdale’s

Mood: This season felt notably grounded in reality in New York. There was a discernible shift away from outlandish theatrics toward clothes that feel purposeful and directional — modern classics rather than transient one-offs. Show after show delivered beautiful tailoring and thoughtful outerwear, pieces designed to live in rather than preen in. Still, for all the polish and pragmatism, I found myself craving a few more smiles. One welcome exception was Wes Gordon at Carolina Herrera. From the artists and gallerists cast on the runway to the buoyant soundtrack and those perfect party frocks — the stiletto print was a favorite — the show had a sense of joy that felt genuine and much needed.

Key trends: On one of this week’s lengthy rides across Manhattan, a friend remarked that Ricky Lauren feels like the muse of the week — and it rang true. There’s been a quiet but persuasive strain of Americana threading through NYFW, not the bombastic, flag-waving kind, but something more intimate and lived-in. Call it polish without pretense. At Ralph Lauren’s standout show, the grandeur was unmistakable — sumptuous fabrics, cinematic silhouettes — yet it never lost its footing. It felt opulent, yes, but tethered to reality. Elsewhere — at Rachel Scott’s first outing for Proenza Schouler, and at Khaite and Fforme — the lines were cleaner and the mood more pared back, but the sensibility remained distinctly American: pragmatic, assured, refined in a way that doesn’t try too hard.

Favorite collections:  Altuzarra, Heirlome, Ashlyn, Kallmeyer, Khaite

Hot items: Coats! The freezing temperatures in New York — and across much of the U.S. — over the past few weeks have reminded everyone that we’re not living in a seasonless world just yet. Designers seemed to respond in kind. Blankets, shawls and capes were everywhere, as if the runways themselves needed bundling up. There were toggle coats in heavy rotation, plenty of shearling, and — whether you’re a fan or not — the return of fur (in the front row if not on the runway) was hard to ignore. My favorites were at Altuzarra. His cocoon-y peacoats and shearling bombers felt indulgent but practical — the kind of pieces that will keep everyone warm should we have another hideous snowstorm to survive next winter. 

Discoveries: We’re very excited to be launching Heirlome, Fforme, Zankov, Christopher John Rogers, Rachel Scott’s first collection for Proenza Schouler, and many more American designers at Bloomingdale’s in the coming months.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman

Mood: It’s been a prideful week as the stalwarts of American design showed us why they continue to endure and resonate. Confidence and ease permeated the runways, and the week was further lifted by the celebratory mood of numerous hard-won anniversaries.

Key trends:  Nonchalant luxe was the prevailing “vibe” of the week. Rich materials like velvet, leather, shearling and cashmere underpinned collections, and were worn with an American sense of ease. Extraordinary proportions stood out, particularly with Khaite, Altuzarra and Prabal Gurung. Grounding earth tones was a favorite palette of the season, especially in shades of brown, cognac and walnut, punctuated by reds and burgundies. Layered dressing is key. Accessories stepped up in an unprecedented way, supporting polished looks with gloves, brooches, bags, belts, hats and wraps.

Favorite collections: Michael Kors’ anniversary show and collection was a triumph of confident design set against a perfect elevated venue. The clothes personified the luxurious ease and glamour of the season. Ralph Lauren’s collection was beautiful, transporting and had a mythical quality. Khaite was a stunning standout. The Khaite woman is quintessentially New York: glamorous, edgy, feminine, favors black, and above all, chic in a modern way. Altuzarra sent out one of his best collections. The proportions were masterful, and the mix of outerwear and glamour had us holding our breath waiting for the next look.  

Hot items:  Mink brown colored furry coats; investment shearling varieties are a must; cropped outerwear silhouettes: bombers, blousons and short swing shapes. 

Discoveries The new guard of American talent, Diotima, Ashlyn and Aisling Camps are consistently exciting and increasingly sophisticated in new and modern ways of dressing.

Rickie De Sole, vice president, fashion director, Nordstrom

Mood: Women led the conversation this week, with Tory Burch, Proenza Schouler’s Rachel Scott, Fforme’s Frances Howie, Ashlyn, Aisling Camps, Khaite and Kallmeyer delivering a powerful vision of women designing for women — grounded in strength, clarity and intention. What emerged was a season defined by ease and quiet confidence, where modern dressing feels instinctive, purposeful and deeply personal. 

Key trends: All about velvet, lace and leather emerged as the most predominant themes of the week. Richness in texture dominated the runways. This season marked a return to occasion dressing — a renewed sense of dressing up with somewhere to go — channeling old‑school New York glamour through a distinctly modern take on ’80s‑era opulence, most notably at Khaite, Carolina Herrera and Kors. Outerwear took center stage, with Altuzarra’s sculptural, beautifully worked coats and Ralph Lauren’s impeccably polished wool toppers and gleaming trenches capturing a confident, quintessentially New York sophistication.

Favorite collections: Khaite, Diotima, Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera, Michael Kors

Hot items: Colleen Allen’s velvet bag — designed to tie at the waist and double as a bustle. Take cues from the Lii runway with a pop of color that adds texture to any outfit.

Discoveries: Colleen Allen, Kallmeyer, Lii, Aisling Camps, and Ossou  

Chloe King, director, fashion and lifestyle, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus

Mood: We were particularly proud to celebrate the women designers who drove the week’s most compelling narratives. Rachel Scott is a force who delivered a brilliant double act with shows for both Proenza Schouler and Diotima, alongside stellar showings from Tory Burch, TWP, Ashlyn and Fforme. Khaite continues to anchor the week with high octane energy. New York is always a resource for best-in-class sportswear, but this week saw an explosion of evening offering too, the unapologetic glamour of an “uptown” classic femininity. 

Key trends: An “uptown” sensibility and renewed penchant for getting dressed up manifested in a surge of eveningwear, sequins, blouson skirts, brooches and opera gloves. Lean skirts started at Marc Jacobs and continued throughout the week. Pony hair was a standout in RTW and accessories, looking particularly excellent at Simkhai, Khaite and Veronica Beard. Modernized skirt suits and neat knit sets felt notably fresh. Aviator and bomber jackets emerged as key items for the season. Shearling will be important across all categories — especially delicious in a floor-length coat at Ralph Lauren and in sculpted A-line shapes at Altuzarra. Aubergine and brown stood out as key colors of the week.

Favorite collections: Tory Burch showed at the Met Breuer, a perfect backdrop for her razor-sharp, artful offering of twisted sportswear. The collection nailed the week’s attitude with lean skirts, retro embellished sweater sets and a pair of knockout embroidered car coats.  Michael Kors celebrated 45 years with his signature joie de vivre! The sharp combination of glamour and pragmatism shone under the lights of the Metropolitan Opera House at Lincoln Center: trousers draped into ball skirts, T-shirts exploding with feathers and fabulous coats for the office or party season. Khaite had another megawatt show, this time under a towering light installation designed by Cate’s husband Griffin Frazen. All the slick brand signatures were there — leather, lace, trim trousers and striking footwear. Zankov and Diotima have become highly anticipated outings, both designers expertly evolving and elevating their design language into new, completely original spaces.

Discoveries: Freshly nominated for the LVMH prize, Lii and Colleen Allen are ones to watch. Both technically skilled and highly curious, their examination of cut, form and color were bright spots in the week.

Angela Pieretti, general merchandise manager, women’s, Mitchell Stores:

Mood: Resilient. Nearly 100 shows and presentations in six days. Challenges aside, there is craftsmanship to admire, talent to find and business to do. The industry is full of determined, creative thinkers. 

Key trends: I wrote the same few words down after every show or showroom visit.  Shoulders, hips, swaddled, cardigans, circle skirts, animal print, tails, brooch, pointed toes, Western tall boots, long gloves, skinny belts, chain belts, doctor bags, button-up, romantic. Leather, suede, velvet, bugle beads, inky denim, double-face wool. Deep green, clay, gold, browns, black, blues, charcoal, red and purple. Faux fur and shearling options keep getting better. Romantic touches of lace, velvet and ruffles mixed among all the button-up, back-to-the-office options.

Favorite shows: Joseph Altuzarra, Khaite, Carolina Herrera, Khaite, Eckhaus Latta, Kallmeyer, Michael Kors

Hot items: Gold jacquard coat at Kallmeyer; carpenter pant in cotton canvas at Altuzarra, knit strapless tube dress with matching shawl at Ralph Lauren; long brown slipdress with train at TWP; every leather jacket that walked at Khaite.

Discoveries: Commanding attention — Colleen Allen and Andrew Curwen

Tiffany Hsu, chief buying & group fashion venture officer, Mytheresa

Mood: There was a noticeable shift toward seriousness and sophistication across the board, even among brands typically associated with a more exuberant energy. We saw an embrace of velvet, sheer layering, sharp suiting, and tactile, almost indulgent outerwear. Monochrome dominated the runway, creating a cohesive, almost meditative visual language.

Key trends: This season crystallized around powerful tailoring, suiting emerged as a cornerstone, reinterpreted with both structure and sensuality. Fluffy, statement outerwear added texture and drama, while leather was treated with a refined, almost sculptural approach. Velvet returned with depth and richness, and sheer fabrics were styled with generous volume for evening, creating movement and modern romance.

Favorite shows: Khaite was unquestionably a highlight. The brand continues to define modern American luxury with a rare balance of restraint and sensuality. The precision of the tailoring, the depth of texture, and the emotional clarity of the collection felt incredibly assured. It was a masterclass in controlled confidence, exactly the kind of elevated narrative that resonates deeply with today’s global luxury customer. Khaite’s set was truly memorable.

Discoveries: Kallmeyer and Lii stood out as emerging names to watch. Both demonstrate a compelling understanding of proportion and materiality, with a clarity of vision that feels highly relevant for the contemporary luxury landscape.

Beth Buccini, founder and owner of Kirna Zabête 

Mood: Overall, it was a strong New York Fashion Week, with a nice mix of shows from major established designers like Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors and Carolina Herrera, as well as exciting newcomers. The mood was cautiously upbeat, and the fashion was solid.  There are beautiful things to buy, but the wow factor was missing overall. In these uncertain times, we saw lots of dark colors and less risk-taking. 

Key trends: Key trends are leather and shearling, glossy chic and polish, Western styles and fringe, voluminous outerwear, lace and bows, and lots of layering. Colors were mostly muted browns, grays, black and ivory, along with pops of oxblood and red. 

Favorite collections: Khaite is always the highlight of the week for me, and this show was fabulous.  I loved the dramatic evening dresses and ethereal blouses. I thought Rachel Scott did a great job at her first Proenza Schouler show, feminizing the house’s codes, and then had a beautiful Diotima show as well. TWP keeps getting better and better. Trish [Wescoat Pound, founder of TWP] understands how real women want to dress before we do, and I love what she does.  Kallmeyer was so chic and full of items that the client will love. Maria McManus is always beautiful and so strong in her craftsmanship.  It is great to see these female stars in our industry.  Cate [Holstein], Rachel [Scott], Trish [Wescoat Pound], Daniella [Kallmeyer], and Maria [McManus] are all so talented and visionary, but they can also make fabulous clothes that really sell. 

Hot items: The “Ugly” pump is back, often with texture, and accessories are strong: brooches, elbow-length gloves, and fun evening bags. 

Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew

Mood: There was an alluring energy across New York this season, with a strong sense of optimism about what lies ahead. We have seen a positive shift from American brands doubling down on real wardrobes and real customers. The strength of the New York designers felt especially clear, as brands leaned into polish, practicality and wardrobe dressing.

Key trends: Designers looked to the Gilded Age, ushering in a romantic renaissance that still felt grounded in everyday wearability. Velvet in deep jewel tones, high-collared blouses, and flouncy silhouettes appeared across collections from Ralph Lauren and Khaite. Minimalism continues to evolve into a more intellectual approach to tailoring. Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein led this direction alongside Fforme and Kallmeyer. Rachel Scott’s debut at Proenza Schouler offered a fresh definition of modern minimalism. Bold color and crafted detail also stood out. Ulla Johnson, Tory Burch, Zankov, Diotima, and Carolina Herrera leaned into intricate design and confident colorblocking.

 
Favorite collections: Ralph Lauren continues to build a compelling vision of the modern woman. The collection felt confident, refined and deeply sophisticated. Khaite continues to grow its cool factor each season, with pieces that felt fresh, directional and highly covetable. Rachel Scott’s first collection for Proenza Schouler marked a thoughtful new chapter for the brand. Familiar silhouettes were reworked through a sharper lens on tailoring and craft. Wes Gordon’s artistic celebration at Carolina Herrera presented a fresh take on cocktail dressing that felt joyful and widely appealing.
 
Hot items: The updated Kiss Lock Bag from Coach; pendant necklaces featuring fish motifs and mini flasks; the peplum jacket from Proenza Schouler; Calvin Klein jeans with leather detailing; any leather piece from Khaite.

Discoveries: A new cohort of designers is invigorating the New York calendar. With the return of Public School alongside Zankov, Diotima, Lii, Ashlyn, and Kallmeyer, the city feels defined by distinctive points of view. Each designer has cultivated a strong community around their brand and seeing that energy come to life on the runway felt especially powerful this season.

April Hennig, president, Moda Operandi:

Mood: It’s impossible to ignore the broader state of the world and industry right now, and American designers seem to be thinking about the wardrobe as a grounding force. These are reliable, wearable clothes that offer a sense of stability. A strong spirit of creativity is there, but it’s not about making a grand statement as much as it is about meeting the customer where she’s at and thinking pragmatically about her lifestyle. New York is home to an incredible group of women designing for women — Rachel Scott at Diotima and Proenza Schouler, Ashlyn’s Ashlynn Park, Colleen Allen, Francis Howie at Fforme and Rúadh’s Jac Cameron are all making clothes that make the wearer feel powerful and capable. Wes Gordon’s decision to feature women from the art world in the Carolina Herrera show was also a meaningful nod to the creative female forces that drive this industry.

Key trends: It’s all about luxe texture and color this season — there was a sense of uptown glamour across the board, balanced with some fresh propositions for day-to-day staples (like the town-and-country looks at TWP and Ossou). There was a lot of richly hued velvet — chocolate brown at Ralph Lauren, orange at Colleen Allen, ochre at Fforme and jet black at Khaite. We also saw creative uses of highly textured gold (Kallmeyer, Carolina Herrera, Ulla Johnson, Laquan Smith and Khaite) and heavyweight satin (Heirlome and Prabal Gurung). Hair calf continues to be a favorite when it comes to high-impact outerwear (like at Simkhai) and it was also used creatively on a dress at Fforme. Zankov and Simkhai presented expressive, embellished takes on the knit dress. Aubergine and purple stood out (at Michael Kors and Sergio Hudson), as well as pearl gray as a go-to neutral. Securing scarves with a brooch at one shoulder proved a popular styling trick at Ossou, Altuzarra and Ralph Lauren. There’s also “Wuthering Heights” effect that’s being interpreted in different ways, from the renaissance silhouettes at Ralph Lauren to the more conceptual contemporary shapes at Colleen Allen. Accessories trends include clutches, animated gloves, animal print and belts.

Favorite shows: Khaite continues to lead the pack, with a stunning collection that balanced edgy cool with feminine glamour. Altuzarra showed a really nice balance of wearable day-to-day layers and dramatic, emotional dresses. Kallmeyer continues to evolve and mature — this was a really polished and sophisticated collection from her. 

Hot items: The black hair calf strapless dress at Fforme is definitely going to resonate with the Moda customer, as well as the burgundy calf hair coat at Simkhai. The gold cloqué jacket with frog closures at Kallmeyer is also a must-have. Khaite always delivers on covetable accessories: this season’s standouts were the thigh-high boots, elongated Blake clutch and flower brooches. From Proenza Schouler, the black and white striped clutch made an impression; and at Altuzarra, the heavy-hardware belts feel like a wardrobe staple in the making.

Discoveries: We’re closely watching Lii (the sporty track jackets are great) and Kate Hundley — she has a really fresh approach to leather. And we remain focused on nurturing and steadily growing our business with the emerging designers we have launched in recent seasons, including Fforme, Colleen Allen, Rúadh, Ossou, Heirlome, Kallmeyer and Mel Usine.