Sohee Park knows how to work a theme. As the story goes, she was taking tea in her native South Korea, gazing through a window at the landscape, when inspiration for her spring collection struck. Shifting land- and skyscapes were the backdrop for her highly elaborate collection. She sent a naturalized white peacock down the runway with one model, and worked its plumage into her collection in a multitude of ways both literal and metaphorical. Scalloped peplum skirts, layer upon layer of two-tone lace or tulle, and fish-scale-like feather embroideries in purple or white were among those nods.
The multiplicity of techniques she used was impressive, from graphic textural embroideries featuring large-as-life wisteria to traditional ink painting that echoed the designer’s fine art background, adorning a voluminous pink silk organza cape and matching dress. Wearable sculptures were crafted in brass by Kirk Maxson and Armando Farfan Jr. as extensions of gowns evoking bright pink cherry blossom and green bamboo.
The London-based designer transposed the window she looked out of onto the female silhouette, which she used as a frame for her designs, articulating imaginary scenes. While her creations were particularly elaborate, they did not shy from showing the skin. The neckline of the translucent bamboo dress scooped to the waist, the model covering her breasts with her hands, while a nude corset sat resolutely below the bust, layered over transparent mesh. A giant draped and puffed organza stole with matching skirt was large enough to appear demure, despite only skin underneath.
One wedding gown was see-through all bar the embroideries — bridal is a growing category for Miss Sohee, she confided during a preview. A second bride brought the window theme fully into its own, its extensive train separated into casement-like sections with each, tone-on-tone, displaying a different scene.
Coco Rocha, walking the show once again in not one but two looks, warmed to the theme, her background as a performer coming into its own as she preened down the runway.
