Kevin Germanier is used to making haute couture gowns from upcycled trash like Mylar balloons and plastic bags, but this season his raw material was a little more noble.
For his spring collection, the designer used leftover products from seven fashion houses belonging to luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, including some of the French team uniforms designed by Berluti for the opening ceremonies of the 2024 Paris Olympic and Paralympic Games.
While the rest of the houses chose to remain anonymous, Antoine Arnault, head of image and environment at LVMH, and Hélène Valade, the group’s environmental development director, came to support the designer, who previously collaborated with the group on a smaller line presented at its Life 360 summit in 2023.
“This time around, we had even more to choose from because the designer musical chairs unlocked quite a lot of stock,” he said.
Lisa Rinna opened the show in a black off-the-shoulder bodysuit paired with a drop-waisted tulle skirt and a crown of black hawthorns made from plastic bottles. “I feel much like a queen, exactly right where I belong — a ‘Traitor’ queen,” the actress and reality star quipped backstage.
In a palette that progressed from dark to light, Germanier sent out suits embellished with dense embroidery in spiky, creeping patterns inspired by the work of Swiss artist H.R. Giger, best known for his design work on “Alien.” Colors ran riot on a giant puff of an ostrich feather coat, and a tinsel column dress.
Germanier marked his first runway foray into bridal with a series of lacy white gowns. Although they were some of the strongest looks in the show, pairing them with face masks felt like a recycled idea.
While he was careful to erase all visible logos, it was tempting to guess the source of his materials. The designer’s lips were sealed. “I’m leaving it open to interpretation, but maybe that’s why LVMH works with me. I just use my excuse: I’m Swiss and I’m neutral,” he said with a laugh.
