Maison Kitsuné’s lastest presentation marked a strong step forward for the Paris-Tokyo house. Back on the official calendar after seven years, the brand dipped its toes in the waters of a runway show at their headquarters.
Both the presentation and the line’s cohesiveness signaled a confident turn and holistic brand direction under new creative director Abigail Smiley-Smith.
The clothes reflected that evolution. Knitwear, outerwear and denim anchored the collection, with tactile contrasts such as fluffy alpaca sweaters paired with structured technical pieces doing much of that work.
The brand upped its materials game by renewing its foundation with higher-quality textiles. The result was a coed wardrobe that felt functional without tipping into utilitarian, and commercial without losing character — a noticeable refinement from blurred earlier seasons.
Smiley-Smith said she wants the brand to feel cohesive from top to bottom, and that was evident in the small touches of staging such as models carrying Café Kitsuné-branded coffee cups, while the circular runway was anchored by DJ Leopold, who happens to be signed to the Kitsuné music label.
Her vision is to reinforce the brand’s long-standing lifestyle positioning rather than as just another fashion label.
“To me, that’s one of our unique factors. We’re a lifestyle brand legitimately, and we should celebrate that,” she said.
Coffee and music are entry points. “I want everyone to feel like part of the gang, and I really like the inclusivity that offers something a bit more accessible, even in terms of price point. I want it to feel genuinely good value,” she said, noting an increased use of Japanese fabrics.
She also pulled in more inventive uses of the popular canine logo, including headgear with fox ears.
“Honestly, I just wanted vibes,” she said of the afternoon party atmosphere. “It just made complete sense that we should bring our whole world together.”
Overall, it was stronger wardrobe proposition, and a sign that Smiley-Smith is shaping the brand with long-term coherence in mind.
