A 1988 collection that saw the late designer Franco Moschino celebrating his “complici,” or accomplices, inspired Adrian Appiolaza to recreate the exercise and exalt the group of friends and collaborators that surround him.
The vivacious crew featured in the brand’s latest look book photographed by Francesc Planes, modeling Appiolaza’s designs for the women’s pre-fall 2026 and men’s fall lines. The images offer a fun and colorful snapshot of what life in the Moschino atelier might look like, while keeping faith with Appiolaza’s mission of representing an array of different characters through his work rather than group clothing concepts and archetypes.
He did so with a streamlined and unfussy approach, with silhouettes that had echoes of the ‘80s and a generous share of irony that’s attuned to both the brand and his own character.
The team’s everyday tools became integral part of their looks, with tailor’s measuring tape doubling as ornaments cinching a LBD, wrapping ankles via high-heeled sandals and making for a new iteration of the Tie Me hero bag. The different Moschino labels hailing from the archives were combined to create one of the key prints of the season, splashed on everything from fluid shirts to boxers.
Life beyond the corporate walls was referenced in different ways, ranging from dry-cleaner receipts permanently pinned on crisp classic shirts to a puzzle theme that ran through the lineup informing minidresses, pencil skirts and chunky knits, down to tote bags and brooches. A member of the team living in the countryside was celebrated with her sheep printed on an apron dress, while Appioloza brought memories of his own experience in London with trench coats and suits already coming with raindrops, so that one doesn’t even have to bother carrying an umbrella.
Reflective surfaces and leather leftovers assembled into skirts added to recurrent Moschino codes, from trompe-l’œil galore to the ever-present Smiley, which this time appeared also in a menacing, upside-down version to question if joy today is still possible.
Appiolaza was determined to make the case that it is, indeed, with an array of fancy accessories. His handbags and clutches shaped as a roll of toilet paper, dolphins, corn cobs or reminiscent of fluffy clouds were his irreverent antidote to the bluest of days — even at the office.
