Is it denim? Is it corduroy? It’s both and it’s a standout. Brunello Cucinelli introduced this fabric in double-breasted pantsuits that were among the winners of the collection – once again luxurious yet relaxed as the brand’s customers want. Corduroy in a frosted version was also remarkable.
Cucinelli turned to one of his beloved philosophers, Seneca, for the title of his fall collection, “Art imitates nature.”
This translated into a harmonious lineup that blended functional yet luxurious leather coats and jackets with cozy and rustic knits with irregular textures in fine yarns and double-breasted pantsuits with all-over patterns that had a British undercurrent.
Blazers showed more subtly structured shoulders and softer lines, worn over ties, which are definitely back, as were cargo pants, which balanced the formal look.
There was a vaguely military influence in the supple leather trench coat and biker jacket inspired by a 1940s model with an asymmetrical pocket, metal buttons and epaulettes.
Outerwear was not an afterthought, as seen in the coat with a shearling shawl collar that was based on a U.S. Army Jeep coat with leather trims.
Three-dimensional weaves, Donegal and other tweeds added textures to the neutral and dark color palette, which was jazzed up by pops of burgundy and ocean blue, for example.
