Pitti Uomo Spotlights Updates Men’s Wardrobe Staples for Fall 2026

FLORENCE, Italy – Could Pitti Uomo gain momentum from the global volatility?

Amid geopolitical instability and uncertain prospects of consumer behavior in harsher times, buyers and manufacturers hit the four-day fair with a forward-looking mindset, betting that the showcase can challenge global menswear fashion weeks with its sharp and focused formula.  

The halls were busy on the first couple of days and the cautiously optimistic mood among exhibitors and buyers alike suggested that the sector is hoping for a rosier 2026.

“Despite the current news and the overall climate, the fashion industry is pressing on,” said Andrea Burbi, menswear senior buyer at LuisaViaRoma.

According to Young-Su Kim, senior vice president, general merchandise manager, men’s ,and men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman, the fair suggested “optimism in menswear for the year ahead. There was a strong sense of confidence in where the sector is headed, with a focus on elevated dressing, quality and craft.”

The industry is reframing and getting accustomed to new realities — including Saks Global’s bankruptcy — and this could provide Pitti Uomo with renewed energy.

According to Mytheresa’s menswear buying director Sophie Jordan, “as menswear fashion weeks continue to lose some of their relevance, with major names increasingly stepping away from the runway, the industry is clearly seeking a strong, dedicated focal point that can truly champion menswear. There is a real opportunity for Pitti Uomo to lean further into this role, with even more fashion and newness that feels genuinely exciting, while still offering a clear desirability to buy and translate into a meaningful, commercial business.”

Tiziana Fausti, owner of 10 Corso Como and Tiziana Fausti, concurred, saying that the winter edition “appeared more compact in terms of layout, but certainly not reduced in substance — on the contrary, it came across as focused and well-optimized, with a strong sense of purpose. It conveyed a sense of a solid fair, fully aware of its identity and its role.”

To this end, buyers praised the fair’s ability to attract up-and-coming talent, with many singling out the crop of Japanese guest designer brands including Soshiotsuki and Shinyakozuka. “They speak to the rising influence that the Japanese apparel and fashion scene is having on the overall menswear zeitgeist,” said Nordstrom’s men’s fashion director Jian DeLeon.

As uncertainty roils, exhibitors continued to bet on men wanting to play the safe game, putting further emphasis on key wardrobe-building pieces updated with subtle novelties. The collections — which six months ago seemed to lack a universal fashion message — looked more focused and rooted in “rich outerwear, layered knits and cold weather sportswear,” in the words of Bruce Pask, assistant vice president, men’s fashion office at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus.

According to Burbi, exhibitors seemed to answer the “clear overall desire to be less flashy and more sophisticated, [highlighted by] a strong focus on details, the reinterpretation of heritage [silhouettes], and an absolute centrality of materials. This shows that the product has been put back at the center of the conversation.”

“Pitti Uomo remains a bastion of classic menswear and tailoring, continuing to fly the flag that champions an elegant spirit of getting dressed and appreciating the nuance of traditional menswear while finding ways to push it forward,” echoed Nordstrom’s DeLeon.

Brunello Cucinelli, a buyers’ favorite, summed up that direction with a “balance of subtle newness [which] consistently feels true to the brand’s DNA, while still delivering a strong and credible ‘reason to buy’ for the customer,” said Mytheresa’s Jordan.

“Cucinelli and, more broadly, the Italian sartorial brands, remain the most compelling to me,” Fausti added. “There is an ease and confidence in their work that comes from deep knowledge rather than trends. They don’t need to raise their voice — and that, today, is perhaps their greatest strength.”

Elsewhere, although the influence of Ivy League prep continued to dominate — “with soft corduroy tailoring and trousers, boldly colored sweaters and classic striped rugby shirts styled casually as weekend wear,” according to Pask — references to “more vintage Americana, outdoors and utility references” ruled the show, as Kim put it.

“A key theme emerging across collections was a sense of luxe utility, with military references coming through strongly. This was complemented by British heritage fabrications and silhouettes, as well as subtle nods to Western detailing and yacht-club inspiration,” added Jordan.

Here, WWD’s picks for the top 10 brands from the show.

Sebago

Fascination for vintage Americana continued to dominate the offering at Pitti Uomo and Sebago is rapidly emerging as a top contender to increase its market share in that space. The brand’s fall offering explored more nuanced facets of its Anglo-Saxon-derived menswear, which combines New England references such as Ivy League attire, fisherman chic and updated utility.

Now that its owner, the BasicNet group, has acquired Woolrich, Sebago softened its outdoorsy credentials, leaning more toward retro-nodding urban staples, including a wool and mohair raglan-sleeved herringbone coat over lean chino pants and a Shetland crewneck; a Type 2 trucker jacket in suede, and field jackets in brown wool with contrasting corduroy collars over chunky turtlenecks.

“I believe this collection really suggests a certain degree of maturity for Sebago’s apparel push, hinged on an effortlessly elegant aesthetic straddling Ivy League and campsite references,” said global brand manager and creative director Marco Tamponi. 

Fisherman and hunting codes were offered subtly and playfully, for example in corduroy carrot pants with little bird embroideries under canvas work jackets, which were also offered in a patchwork of herringbone patterns or multicolor corduroy, the latter inspired by an Abercrombie & Fitch safari style from the 1950s. A novelty theme was to be found in the ranch-inspired range of Western belts, suede overshirts and patchwork corduroy pants, as well as Navajo-inspired blankets.

Caruso

A master colorist, Caruso added playfully sophisticated twists to its signature rich palette for its tailored wardrobe that embodied the best of what the fair has traditionally offered: slightly advanced formalwear that pushes the envelope of conservatism.

Creative director Max Kibardin looked at archetypal menswear tropes and decked them in nuances drawn from the saturated pictures of New York City’s bustling streets taken by photographer Saul Leiter in the ‘50s and ‘60s. The cocooning wardrobe ran the gamut, from the urban-inspired belted and buttonless robe coats in cashmere or camel, to the business-ready rusty red, full silk narrow coat to be tossed over a Solaro double-breasted suit with a matching shirt. Heritage fabrics lent the collection interesting twists as evidenced by the Harris tweed field jackets, wool knickerbocker houndstooth suits that boasted a textured surface, and cashmere bouclé for mandarin collar blazers so deconstructed they looked like knit cardigans.

“The key message is timeless elegance, conveyed through the use of exceptional fibers and colors,” Kibardin said. Cue the eveningwear offering, with tuxedo blazers in warm red velvet or teal boutonné silk and wool blends, paired with tonal shirts. “We are very confident,” said Caruso chief executive officer Marco Angeloni. “Our clients are buying led by emotion, and retailers seem to be returning to scout for real newness, resorting to authentic brands boasting a strong know-how.”

KNT

At KNT, Kiton’s brother brand, Walter and Mariano De Matteis are reinventing their family company’s traditionally Neapolitan tailoring for a younger generation, exploring different facets every season. For fall, they looked at Kiton’s archives from the ‘70s and ‘80s , adding a more-casual spin to the swaggering sartorialwear. That included a preppy-ish striped shirt and regimental tie layered under a cashmere bomber jacket and roomy, pleated pants or the flannel suits with slightly shortened double-breasted blazers.

An interesting emphasis on novelty suits is sure to resonate with the Millennial clientele KNT is trying to court, with the martingale-equipped duster coats and elongated peacoats replacing the traditional blazer which added a youthful spin, further highlighted by some trucker jackets and matching pants ensembles, as well as the use of zingy colors including grass green.

Herno

Herno’s president and CEO Claudio Marenzi is not afraid of challenges, having retooled the outerwear specialist into a wardrobe-building brand over the past several years. Backed by a positive performance in 2025, when sales inched up 6 percent to 194 million euros versus the previous year, the executive is now navigating volatility and complexity in the market.

The fall collection reflected Herno’s ambition to grow its share, not just through global expansion, but also by tapping into different demographics, with smart casualwear hinged on wearability and versatility.

Focusing on the hero down jackets, the brand unveiled 10 new colorways on a sheen hooded iteration and glossy versions while also reprising its signature 7 Denari model by adding a novel quilting pattern. Outerwear including Donegal field jackets paired with corduroy pants, cashmere bombers and soft-touch waxed cotton parkas or lightweight shell-like nylon windbreakers befitting a younger audience, while mixed-media pieces including suede puffers with detachable knit sleeves were designed to meet the needs of contemporary businessmen. Textured knits recurred throughout, with jacquard cardigans replacing blazers and chunky turtlenecks, in rib- or cable-knit versions standing out in the brand’s après-ski range, dominated by teddy bomber jackets and tracksuits.

Luigi Bianchi

A sense of restrained elegance, subtly updated through the use of washed patterns and tonal color combinations, informed the Luigi Bianchi fall collection. Veering away from recent seasons’ cozy and warm palette, the brand zeroed in on enveloping fabrics with cold undertones, shown in elongated blazers paired with relaxed, oftentimes pleated pants.

There was hardly a formal shirt in sight, ditched for plush knits. That was evident in the crewnecks paired with vaguely military-inspired, double-breasted topcoats in cashmere and wool and the sartorial pants in subtle pinstriped and winter Solaro fabrics which added a graphic touch to the season’s business attire. Laid-back iterations on tailoring resonated in the number of suit separates, with Prince of Wales, patch-pocketed blazers worn with woolen field jackets and nylon hoodies.

“Consumers are looking for novelty but are less inclined to risk-taking,” said Giovanni Bianchi, head of design for parent company Lubiam. 

Paul & Shark

Paul & Shark’s now signature sophisticated take on gorpcore — an evolution that has underpinned the firm’s rebranding in recent years — is progressively detouring toward an urban-luxe wardrobe.

Although performance remains paramount, the fall collection leaned more on casual essentials, including textured knits, some coming with fur accents; frescolana pants cut in generous proportions; herringbone peacoats done in a mélange black and white version instead of the brand’s signature navy blue, and lots of mixed media outerwear, including napa and suede trenchcoats, windbreakers and trucker jackets with knit sleeves.

The brand is marking its 50th anniversary this year and started celebrations by reissuing the Paolo blouson designed by Paul & Shark’s founder Paolo Dini. The cashmere bomber jacket with a water- and windproof membrane with knitted hem, collar and cuff, encapsulates the brand’s commitment to urban performance, which resonated also in the new iteration of the signature Typhoon field jacket, here rendered in the “Platinum” silk version combined with the high-tech membrane.

Antik Batik

Since launching a menswear collection in 2023, Antik Batik’s founder and designer Gabriella Cortese has been sharpening her boho chic apparel for her growing male clientele, who used to buy women’s pieces for their own closets. At her first Pitti Uomo presentation, Cortese brought a craft-intensive collection, carving a sweet spot at the intersection of nomadic streetwear and languid casualwear.

Jacquard Buti cotton, lightly padded with cotton threads and overprinted with geometric and paisley motifs drawn from heritage Indian throw blankets, was used in lean or cargo pants styled with matching shirts and outerwear ranging from trucker to shirt jackets. Herringbone kimono-style blazers featured knit trim while cropped vests were edged in fluffy shearling, accessorized with narrow alpaca scarves. An expanded assortment of knits — including styles done in different colors for the front and back — were introduced courtesy of a collaboration with the Shetland Islands-based manufacturer McGeorge of Scotland, established in 1881.

Aquascutum

The legacy brand Aquascutum — among the oldest luxury firms, launched in 1851 by John Emary as the official supplier of trenchcoats for the British military during World Wars I and II — hit the fairgrounds with the Aquascutum Active line.

Developed under a 10-year license with the Italian fashion company Icon, the collection retools the British brand’s heritage under a contemporary and performance-leaning lens by maverick outerwear designer Alessandro Pungetti. In the year marking the 175th anniversary of the company and 50th birthday of Club Check, the brand’s signature checkered pattern traditionally used for linings, appeared as a square patch on outerwear staples. These included trenchcoats crafted from the iridescent Lamina-N nylon and protective hooded shells made of the high-tech Tri-Shield fabric. Padded bombers and puffer jackets came with the eco-minded Thermore stuffing.

The brand also unveiled its first collaboration, a capsule collection in partnership with Societas, the bloke-core brand founded by Mirko Borsche, and first brand ambassador, British actor Geoff Bell.

Rag & Bone

Designer Swaim Hutson’s first collection for Rag & Bone since officially succeeding Robert Geller at the helm of the denimwear brand last December sought to elevate the wardrobe-building proposition by leaning on key codes of the American collegiate, utilitarian aesthetics and understated tailored look.

“Keeping the DNA of the brand and the vision for fall, I just set out to make sure that we had workwear, denim and tailoring as our strong categories, and basically taking those three worlds and throwing them in a blender,” Hutson said. “It’s how the modern guy dresses, and, for sure, how the modern New Yorker dresses.”

Exploring ‘90s references and minimalist constructions, he offered raw denim suiting in the new soft-hand and washable RB Raw fabric that minimizes shrinkage and crocking. He paired slightly shortened and soft-shouldered blazers with sweatpants and a rugby shirt or with soft denim shirts, and added padded mid-layers to traditional herringbone overcoats paired with suits and striped shirts and ties that oozed with subtle nods to American preppy. Jeans, a key category, came in straight-leg cuts with ‘90s-era dyeing, while pops of red spiced up the somber color palette on knit underpinnings and accessories.

Aurélien

Inspired by the Italian “sprezzatura,” or swaggering, style, the Dutch brand Aurélien swapped its usual mediterranean inspiration for a trip to the Nordic landscapes it calls home. The untamed nature of the northern coastlines informed the color palette of browns drawn from volcanic rocks, grays inspired by cloudy skies and mist, and sargasso blue of the sea.

The brand, founded in 2015 by brothers Joris and Philip Hetterschijt, offered an urban-luxe wardrobe for fall, rooted in versatility and effortless elegance aimed at city and outdoorsy use. Precious fibers like cashmere and the patented Cashwool cashmere-wool blends, appeared on rib- and cable-knits, soft field jackets and overshirts paired with winter white chino pants. The traditional suit was ditched in favor of a workwear-inspired iteration in ivory white, while grainy leather added a tactile touch to puffy vests to be matched with Aurélien’s first full-fledged collection of accessories, including weekend bags, backpacks, document holders and footwear.

Joris Hetterschijt said that the brand is enjoying momentum and gearing up to open its second store, joining the existing Amsterdam boutique. The new door is bowing on London’s Brompton Road between the end of the first and beginning of the second quarter. Largely dependent on online sales, with key countries including the U.K. and the U.S., the brand is also starting to dip its toes into wholesale, boosted by its participation at Pitti Uomo.