The enduring charm of Venice has always had a grip on David Koma, who this season indulged in the opulent decadence of the city with a cinematic look book and seductive collection, blending the two into an iconography enriched by Blumarine’s archival images from Helmut Newton and Albert Watson.
“I was dreaming about shooting a project in Venice. It’s a city that doesn’t need a lot of words, but for me it’s a very personal one. I really feel inspired every time I’m there, it’s the only city that makes me feel like going back [in time],” said Koma.
Rather than the Lagoon’s bustling life in daylight, the designer has always been fascinated with the lesser-known sense of quietness and mystery that descend upon its maze of streets after dusk, and that is so in tune with the dark romanticism he’s bringing to the brand.
In the first year of his tenure, Koma increasingly grew confident and fluent in balancing his nocturnal and glam handwriting with the Blumarine codes. For pre-fall 2026, in particular, his penchant for structure and sharp lines was apparent in a series of sculpted short dresses and skirts, including crinoline-bonded georgette frocks embroidered with micro roses and corsetry punctuated by lion-shaped hardware.
Reprised also in tailoring, as seen in a jacket with cocoon sleeves, the hourglass shape adds drama to a lineup largely playing with transparencies and embroideries in chiffon and laced dresses, as well as with hard-to-miss embellishments, including the pleated rose appliqués that appeared on a range of taffeta halter dresses and skirts in different proportions.
These pieces had the party-ready quality that is one of Koma’s signatures, yet preserving a sense of wearability that is attuned to a brand like Blumarine. Riskier options included the opening look crafted from fire-red Chantilly lace and the lingerie leotards worn solo or paired to flounced long skirts that left little to no imagination.
Even daywear was treated with opulence via metallic sprays coating denim separates or knits coming with ruffles, marabou trims or sequined details. Introducing a softer counterpoint, shearling capes and jackets stood out as rendered in Harlequin patterns that nodded to the Venetian mask and that offset the overall nocturnal mood with a fluffy, colorful note.
Ditto for the city’s symbol, the lion, here turned in a cute puppy on T-shirts that infused a dash of wittiness in the sensual lineup.
