Nicolas Ottersten, creative director of Saudi’s popular streetwear label 1886, presented a collection that crystallized the brand’s evolution from its street roots into what he’s dubbed “urban luxury.” It’s a synthesis of power-dressing codes, old-money polish, and unapologetic ’80s ambition, all filtered through 1886’s signature street sensibility.
His Riyadh Fashion Week show opened with sharp tailoring that nodded to the era of Gordon Gekko: broad-shouldered blazers cut with the ease of a bomber jacket, pleated trousers with relaxed silhouettes that maintained their polish, and double-breasted overcoats rendered in premium wools. Ottersten’s interpretation of power dressing traded Wall Street rigidity for contemporary fluidity.
Where the old-money references emerged was in the fabrication and finishing. Luxe cashmere knits and rich textural plays between suede and wool spoke to heritage wardrobe building, but the proportions stayed firmly rooted in street codes. Think an oversized camel coat paired with cargo-inspired trousers, or a fine-gauge turtleneck layered under a structured vest with utilitarian detailing.
“This collection represents change, the same kind of incredible transformation we’re witnessing in Saudi Arabia right now,” Ottersten said.
For women the hemlines were shorter, many above the knee, pushing the envelope in an environment where women have entered the workplace in full force. The overall aesthetic was aimed at “a confident man or woman — someone ready to go out into the world and stake their claim, seize the day,” as Ottersten put it.
1886’s pivot coincides with the brand’s tenth anniversary next year. The designer made clear this isn’t a departure but a natural progression. “Over the past decade, ready-to-wear and street have really merged, almost seamlessly,” he explained. “Since 1886 was born from the streets, it feels natural that we step fully into the world of RTW. It’s not a shift , it’s an evolution.”
The timing couldn’t be better for 1886’s growth into a new category. The brand recently opened a retail location in Riyadh’s Solitaire mall, capitalizing on Saudi Arabia’s booming fashion market and targeting the kingdom’s appetite for contemporary, locally-resonant design.
“I see the confidence in the eyes of people here in Saudi Arabia when they talk about the future,” Ottersten noted. “That energy, that optimism — it’s contagious, and it’s what this collection embodies.”
