PARIS – Jewelry seen during fashion week here were for the bold, the brave and the chic.
One key word ruled the category: self-expression. This took different turns, from heirloom-like pieces tapping into nostalgia to colorful creations for an extra boost of optimism, passing through sinuous shapes, geometric interplays, nature-inspired delicate jewelry, irreverent statement items oozing humor and plenty of modern reinterpretations of grandma’s pearls.
Here are the highlights seen at presentations:
Charlotte Chesnais
There are few brands that deliver golden chicness as Charlotte Chesnais. The jewelry designer, whose namesake label has become a byword for sinuous and sculptural creations with a modern, classy feel, has introduced a fine jewelry line crafted in 18-karat gold, diamonds and pearls.
It coherently built on the curvy aesthetic of the brand and some of its signature designs, like the Twin family featuring subtle interlocking rings in essential bangles and the Round Trip range of cuffs and rings marked by looping lines. Diamond rings of the Serti Sculpté series made for an ideal choice for modern engagements while the Les Perles line cast a contemporary light on pearl necklaces via asymmetries and gold closing doubling as an ornamental element.
“This new collection is a very personal one. Lately, I’ve felt a growing desire for gold, maybe it comes with age, and a pull toward fewer, more precious pieces,” said Chesnais. “It’s a blend of icons like Round Trip and Twin, re-editions of the pieces I’ve loved most, and an homage to what made the brand what it is today: the pursuit of sculpture at every scale.”
Petit Round Trip and Twin rings by Charlotte Chesnais.
Courtesy of Charlotte Chesnais
Aurélie Bidermann
French jewelry brand Aurélie Bidermann has a habit of jetting off to fancy resort destinations to draw inspiration for its spring collections. After Saint-Tropez and the Mediterranean, the brand looked at Palm Beach to evoke a carefree spirit and add a colorful spin into its creations.
The collection centered on new lines referencing local landmarks. These included Mirasol, which is named after the El Mirasol villa — one of architect Addison Mizner’s most famous designs — and played with volumes, cabochon cuts and a mix of gold, pink opal and freshwater pearls in a chunky ring, earrings and a standout long necklace.
The Guerida line nodding to private estate La Querida and its white façades, emerald green lawns and ocean views offered a more naïve take on the colored theme by mean of hearts and floral motifs juxtaposed in a ring, bracelet and pendant earrings.
A different yet equally appealing approach marked the Maddock family, instead, which evoked the woven plant fibers used in the furniture and accessories with its handcrafted feel and hammered metal details seen in a striking cuff and a pair of asymmetric mini hoop earrings, among others.
A design from the Mirasol family by Aurélie Bidermann.
Courtesy of Aurélie Bidermann
D’heygere
One can always count on Stéphanie D’heygere for an injection of much-needed humor in the category. The Paris-based Belgian accessories designer is always a not-to-be-missed appointment as her collections stand apart in the jewelry arena for their combination of versatility and wittiness. For spring 2026, she delivered her successful formula via a “Lost & Found” theme expressed also through different collaborations.
For one, she tied up with Tokyo-based label Jenny Fax on quirky necklaces and earrings mixing ribbons, strands of fake hair, hair clips and pastel-hued little combs in a mashup that is sure to catch attention.
Ditto for the pieces developed with Belgian designer Marie Adam-Leenaerdt that riffed on princess-y jewelry with solitaire rings scaled up to exaggerated proportions.
Earrings from the tie-up between D’heygere and Jenny Fax.
Courtesy of D’heygere
Elsewhere, inventive creations strictly tied to the theme included chunky rings featuring laser lights meant to come in handy while searching for items in a bag; those conceived to attach keys to it, not to lose them in the first place, or bold takes shaped as card holders or frames to easily carry driver’s licenses and pictures of beloved ones around. Another bag-free option that is sure to charm party-goers? The belt with metal buckle designed to hold a lighter — both functional and a great conversation starter.
Kinraden
Continuing its exploration of Mpingo blackwood, traditionally used for high-end musical wind instruments like oboes, Danish jewelry label Kinraden treats it as a precious alternative to diamonds. The architectural background of founder and designer Sarah Emilie Müllertz came out in full force in the coiled structures of the “Nautilus” line unveiled at their Paris showroom.
The wood element in earrings, necklaces and rings took the brilliant cut traditionally used for diamonds, while 18-karat gold or silver settings — recycled, as always — became spirals nodding to the shelled cephalopod but also to the Fibonacci sequence, a series of numbers found in waves, seashells and galaxies that is considered “nature’s own language of growth and proportion” as Müllertz put it.
A design from the Nautilus line by Kinraden.
Courtesy of Kinraden
Bea Bongiasca
The natural treasures of the sea also inspired Milan’s Bea Bongiasca, who brought the “Spinosetti” capsule collection unveiled in Paris. Rather than direct interpretations of sea urchins and starfish, the jeweler took a sculptural and textural approach in her designs.
It is about “the beauty and strength of nature and how we humans adorn ourselves to express but also to shield,” she said.
Earrings and the jeweler’s vine-like signature rings see their outline turn delicately spiny, while enamel brings out the texture on a figurative starfish set with a drop-shaped sapphire curled around the finger as a ring.
A ring by Bea Bongiasca.
Courtesy of Bea Bongiasca
Mara Paris
Founder and designer Ayça Özbank Taskan sees the Mediterranean Sea as more than a sunshine state of mind and an explosion of sun-drenched hues. In her latest demi-fine jewelry line, it’s the quartet of “form, texture, sensation and emotion,” as she put it at her Paris presentation, that guided her hand.
Cue textured jewels that read like inlets of gold curling above the collarbone in a wide choker necklace or a segmented thinner version, around the wrist as a cuff or dangling from earlobes.
In the “Pedra” line, which owes its name to the Sardinian word for stone or pebble, the idea of these natural “objects with presence” inspired Özbank Taskan for voluptuous and voluminous shapes.
Available in silver, rhodium or 18-karat-gold plated, the line retails between 200 euros for small earrings and ear cuffs and up to 2,000 euros for the Aurora choker.
A design from Mara Paris.
Denis Boulze/Courtesy of Mara Paris
Persée
Heirloom-like creations expanded the offering of Persée, which is best known for the delicate jewelry pieces presenting diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds in their bare and pure form, freed from settings. Along with the floating diamond rings and necklaces, the Parisian fine jewelry house that Nawal Laoui established in 2017 presented oval and heart-shaped lockets in necklaces and rings with a retro feel, as well as diamond-encrusted pendants with motifs including moon, snakes and hamsa hands — all doubling as wearable talismans to carry around every day.
The Memoria rings by Persée.
Courtesy of Persée
Jude Benhalim
The sculptural fashion jewelry of Egyptian brand Jude Benhalim hinged on the duality between gold and silver, instead, as seen in the Una and Mini Harmonia earrings. The brand, which was established in 2015 by mother-daughter duo Jude Benhalim and Rana El Azm with the mission to create contemporary pieces merging local craftsmanship with a modern design vision, is known for its flowing lines inspired by nature, nodding to everything from petals to dew.
Handcrafted in Cairo, the new collection was rich in organic shapes, as displayed in the elegant Janus cuff and the bold Juno choker. The brand’s fashion line is crafted from brass, finished in either rhodium or 21-karat gold, while the fine jewelry collection mixes metals of 925 sterling silver and 21-karat gold plating. Some creations were further embellished with pearls, as seen in the Gemino pendant earrings and necklace that delivered an extra dose of drama.
The Una earrings by Jude Benhalim.
Courtesy of Jude Benhalim
Tasaki
The Japanese jeweler Tasaki introduced new designs in its ongoing M/G line, a decade-long collaboration with Greek-born, London-based designer Melanie Georgacopoulos.
Here, it was all about the play of lustrous orbs in contrast with other precious materials and geometries. In Disc Pearl, ovoid motifs in the soft Sakuragold gold were outlined with diamonds and reflected the softness of South Sea pearls. Meanwhile, in Square Leaf, the organic curves were offset by angular gold motifs that seemed to have floated down onto selected pearls on necklaces, earrings and rings.
Square Leaf by Tasaki.
Courtesy of Tasaki
Ahkah
The Japanese jeweler, which is under the umbrella of the Tasaki group since 2018, is gearing up for its next chapter centered around international expansion. There’s a new logo, which moved away from a lightly handwritten vibe to a bolder type, and the brand is also moving up in the fine jewelry space, with ever-more refined designs.
Creative director Katie Hillier, who took up the design helm in 2020, leaned further into the cascading Chandelier signature of the brand, this time with a delicate torque necklace with a fringe of brilliant-cut diamonds kissing the collarbones and a striking ear cuff from which diamonds seemed to drip in glittering lines.
Variations with baguette diamonds turned the dangling elements into dancing spots of light for a different but no less charming take.
A design from Ahkah.
Courtesy of Ahkah
L’Atelier Nawbar
Lebanese fine jewelry brand L’Atelier Nawbar — which boasts a heritage dating back to 1891 and has been revamped to attract modern customers by the fourth generation of Nawbars – continued to build on the narrative it introduced last season, when it looked at the ‘90s but through the lens of a woman delving into her mother’s jewelry box, filled with retro-flair pieces sourced at auctions or collected during her trips around the world.
The pieces extending the collection kept spotlighting the boldness of gold and playing with talismans centered on key themes of the brand, such as the evil eye symbol abounding on necklaces and minimal earrings and rings nodding to the shape of the snake.
The brand’s signature approach to jewelry stacking was further emphasized via sinuous rings and graphic reinterpretations of hoop earrings that featured colorful gemstones or enameled details for a mood-boosting effect.
Earrings by L’Atelier Nawbar.
Courtesy of L’Atelier Nawbar
Létrange
Létrange is going deeper into its jewelry proposition, which is seen as a natural extension of its luxurious leather goods. To be sure, the brand is known for the Létrange Empreinte bag and its sculptural twisted handle, that was originally intended to be a jewel itself before creative director Mathias Jaquemet put it on the leather accessory.
The company decided to give the initial idea a proper spin-off, launching silver rings, cuff bracelets and choker necklaces reprising the same signature shape. Now it has expanded the family with new sizes, as well as introduced chunky ear cuffs meant to be stacked for an edgier, rock ‘n’ roll take on one of the key codes of the historic house.
Designs by Létrange.
Courtesy of Létrange
Sarah Madeleine Bru
Sarah Madeleine Bru had her eyes on the ocean for the launch of the “Perle des Jours” ring, which played on the idea of hiding and showing, revealing and protecting the sizeable South Sea pearl it holds. The central piece of her latest collection, its sculptural frame in 18-karat yellow gold or platinum, seemed to shift when moving around the finger, depending on how it is worn.
Also continued in this chapter of Bru’s dialogue between the land and sea is her collaboration with Scottish stone hunters. Gemstones are hand-sourced on the seaside and cut in London. Drops, soft cabochons and even some finds left with the natural contours became the stars on asymmetric Arum earrings and other jewels.
After relocating to France earlier in the year, Bru recently opened her showroom in Paris, while continuing to work with her network of Paris- and London-based small independent craftspeople.
Sarah Madeleine Bru
Courtesy of Sarah Madeleine Bru
Melanie Georgacopoulos
Three distinct colors of pearls were what gave its name to Tria, the latest collection in Georgacopoulos’ eponymous brand. Freshwater, Akoya, South Sea and Tahitian varieties became washes of lustrous white, soft lavender and rich peacock tones that the designer used in a dialogue between rhythm, form and material.
“Each color embodies a different emotion,” she said at her Paris presentation. “All have equal importance but balance is what keeps harmony.”
There were open rings that gave the impression of pearls floating across the hand, multistrand necklaces with smaller darker pearls zipping across in graphic lightning bolts. Most striking were the necklace and bracelet playing on ascending pearls, which offered striking visual rhythm and are quite the rarity given how difficult it is to source matching hues across sizes.
Clasps and openwork earring constructions in yellow, white gold and black ruthenium-plated silver were cunningly designed to disappear between their lustrous companions to let pearls take absolute pride of place.
The collection also marked the introduction of marine diamonds, stones sourced on the ocean floor off the coast of South Africa by British specialist Ocean Diamond.
Melanie Georgacopoulos
Courtesy of Melanie Georgacopoulos
Mysteryjoy
Mysteryjoy and its founder, gemologist Joy Toledano, continue to embrace lab-grown diamonds as a luxurious opportunity to explore new cuts. After playing with the alphabet in the Diale line, it was the symbols behind her playing cards-inspired Game Illusion designs that she turned to.
Priced at 5,900 euros, the Diale Symbole 18-karat gold rings were set with a solitaire 2-carat stone cut in the shape of a spade, heart, diamond or club.
Since its launch in 2021, the brand has been spotted on the likes of Blackpink’s Jennie Kim and Lalisa Manobal as well as Katy Perry and Gigi Hadid.
Mysteryjoy
Courtesy of Mysteryjoy
Pen Mané
While impressing others with multi-carat stunners is the last thing Pen Mané cofounders Vincent Guy-Raffin and Calvin Wang have in mind, their latest jewels do catch the eye with the dichotomy between the brushed 14-karat gold curves and gem-set jagged outlines.
Newly introduced are thicker bangles in the Quarter line that bring out this contrast even stronger, as well as earrings playing on similar proportions on the ear. These opulent volumes prefigure the label’s high jewelry offering.
For the design enthusiast, invisible closures on articulated pieces nod to Guy-Raffin’s track at the likes of Carnet, Dior and David Yurman.
Pen Mané Power bangles.
Courtesy of Pen Mané
Wouters & Hendricks for Meryll Rogge
To match Meryll Rogge’s spring 2026 collection alluding to lives less ordinary, 40-year-old Antwerp-based jewelry brand Wouters & Hendricks embraced a spirit of contradiction with its designs.
Usually delicate pearls were turned into XXL spheres with visible silver settings and telegraphed the idea of claws. Charming lockets accumulated into a graphic choker were part sweet remembrance, part bold declaration. Punk studs adorned a open collar necklace, albeit one finished with a bow.
Throughout, punk and vintage influences played into an alt-bourgeois vibe that echoed the wardrobe Rogge carved out of pieces inherited and invented, from band T-shirts shaped into shift dresses and revisited boat shoes to traditional menswear tailoring and luxurious dresses.
Wouters & Hendricks for Meryll Rogge.
Courtesy of Wouters & Hendricks
Yutai
While gemstones in gradient tones are naturally occurring, Tokyo-based designer Yuta Ishihara left nothing to chance with his Fused Gems stones. For the newest iteration of the technique, it was three layers that were cut and assembled into new harmonies.
Distinguished by pavé diamond settings, these trios included blue chalcedony with blue topaz and milky quartz, and rose and lemon quartz with citrine. There was also one where the topaz and citrine boundary blurred, looking like the picture of an endless desert under azure skies.
Yutai
Courteys of Yutai
