Exhibitors Talks About Market Challenges and Innovations

The 100th edition of Micam, the three-day Milan-based international trade show which closed on Tuesday, saw exhibitors registering a cautious but hopeful sentiment. 

Last week, the latest data from Confindustria Moda Research Centre for Assocalzaturifici, the national association representing Italian shoemakers, reported another period of declines for the Italian footwear industry. 

Giovanna Ceolini, president of Micam and Assocalzaturifici, said sales were down 5.6 percent and industrial production was down 9.5 percent in the January to June period.

Micam, together with the leather goods trade show Mipel, recorded 20,362 visitors, of which 43 percent were from Italy and 57 percent were from 126 countries such as Spain, Germany, France, Poland, China, Japan, Nigeria and South Africa. 

Both fairs were moved to early September, alongside concurrent trade shows Micam Milano, TheOne Milano by Micam Milano, Milano Fashion & Jewels — also held at the fairgrounds — and Lineapelle to accommodate preparations for the Milan-Cortina 2026 Winter Olympics.

“Despite initial concerns regarding the timing of the event in relation to Fashion Week, the first day saw a positive turnout, generating optimism for the rest of the exhibition. The leather goods sector is navigating a challenging period, but Mipel remains a fundamental reference point,” said Claudia Sequi, president of Mipel and Assopellettieri.

Business Strategies and Cautious Forecasts  

Ceolini emphasized that apart from tariffs, “the unfavorable exchange rate versus the euro is a major concern.

“It adds costs to the product and makes it less competitive in the market,” she said.

Given that, the executive stated that Micam should focus on supporting small and medium-sized enterprises by facilitating meetings with potential buyers, thereby increasing their market presence. 

Sequi echoed her sentiments, confirming that the U.S. market is crucial for the leather industry, accounting for 12 percent of Italy’s export turnover and ranking as the second most important market after France.

“The weakness of the dollar marks an additional problem, as the increase in tariffs and currency devaluation could lead to a price increase of between 12 to 15 percent. But despite these difficulties, the Italian leather goods sector stands out globally for its expertise, craftsmanship and culture,” she said.

Imanol Martinez, marketing and international business development director at the Federation of Spanish Footwear Industries (FICE), defined tariffs and the global situation as a “big concern” but noted that Spanish brands continue to have a strong presence in the U.S. “This edition of Micam has once again confirmed the strong international positioning of Spanish footwear, with 106 companies and 135 brands participating,” he stated. 

Still, a sense of uncertainty prevailed among exhibitors, who remained cautious in their forecasts. 

Salina Ferretti, chief executive officer of Falc SpA, owner of Flower Mountain and Voile Blanche, among other brands, said the changing tides in the U.S. market are a major issue. However, she also saw opportunities in these challenges, particularly in taking new market shares as some competitors have to exit the market.

Similarly, Alessandro Bracalente, managing director of NeroGiardini, said he saw potential in targeting a broader audience with premium products at an entry-level price. He underscored the company’s commitment to Made in Italy, which is seen as a major asset in foreign markets. This year, the company marked its 50th anniversary, and for the occasion it unveiled the restoration and reopening of its Milan headquarters. 

Jorge Hernandez — director of global sales of the Spanish footwear group The Art Company, owner of El Naturalista, Art, and Neosens — emphasized the importance of explaining the value of “Made in Europe” craftsmanship to clients.

“We have to explain the way we craft products in Europe, the quality we deliver, the materials we use. If we focus on explaining this, the clients will understand that there is an added value in our products.” He added that the company is focusing on creating commercial and easy collections for all its brands since there’s a return to the physical stores. 

In accordance, Victoria Shoes, the renowned Spanish footwear brand founded in 1915, marked its 110th anniversary by launching its first pop-up store in Italy, located in Milan’s Rinascente.

With a global presence spanning over 50 countries, the brand, celebrated for its enduring designs, dedication to sustainability, and eco-friendly materials, is strengthening the link with its Italian audience, its second-largest market alongside France, through this inaugural physical space. 

According to Martinez, the “Made in Spain” label is seen as a powerful asset in the current climate. “Spanish footwear is recognized for its craftsmanship, design and high-quality standards. The European production guarantees compliance with strict regulations in terms of sustainability, labor rights and environmental responsibility, values that are becoming decisive for buyers and final consumers positioning shoes from Spain brands as reliable partners that perfectly combine heritage with innovation,” he said.

Martinez said that one of the key strategies for brands to remain competitive in a changing environment is to invest in digitalization, strengthen e-commerce and direct-to-consumer channels, and diversify international markets. 

Carmen Garcia Cuevas, business developer manager of Chie Mihara, emphasized the importance of logistics in absorbing price increases due to tariffs and exchange rates to maintain stability in exports.

What’s New for Spring

For spring ’26, there is a clear surge in creative and innovative designs.

For Falc’s brands, Flower Mountain and Voile Blanche, the season was characterized by prominent volumes with a cross-brand emphasis on innovative materials.

Flower Mountain, which is celebrating its 10-year anniversary, has launched a special capsule collection featuring reimagined iconic models and a new design, Pu-erh, inspired by Chinese fermented tea. The collection highlighted the brand’s focus on craftsmanship, detail and balance, while showcasing the link between nature and contemporary style.

On the other hand, Voile Blanche’s collection featured bold, eye-catching designs like the Club line, which combined outdoor inspiration with urban flair. The brand’s designs also included minimalist styles like the Ines and Mind sneakers, as well as dressy, feminine options like ballet flats and pumps with natural tones.

Other brands also made a statement with their designs. Thierry Rabotin’s collection featured easy-to-wear and romantic silhouettes for spring, with comfortable and stable heels, as well as pumps adorned with jewels and applications.

Chie Mihara’s lineup included a lot of geometric prints in shades of jade, brown, black and white, mixed with vibrant color hues in many styles, from flats to sandals, sneaker-inspired pieces, and statement wedges with unique details.

NeroGiardini also followed the trend of sporty sandals, which, according to Bracalente, are performing well in the market. The brand has added new colors and models to its collection to give retailers and consumers a wider range of choices. 

Overall, the spring 2026 season saw the brands pushing the boundaries of design, sustainability and style.

The Next Generation 

Micam once again brought to the forefront 12 emerging designers who are trying to break through the market. Their creations stand out for craftsmanship, sustainability, innovation and new perspectives.

According to Matteo Di Paola, chief executive of Servati, “the current market sentiment indicates that buyers are seeking innovative and fresh designs. They are drawn to our new approach to shoe design, which involves reimagining the shape and aesthetic of our products.”

The Italian start-up, founded by Di Paola and creative director Marco Primiceri, creates 3D-printed, fully recyclable sneakers. Using modular design, no glue, and sustainable materials, their shoes support a circular economy.  Additionally, Di Paola noted that there’s a comeback into the physical stores and that this trend represents a key strength for their brand. “Specifically, buyers are requesting in-store demonstrations to ensure a premium customer experience, which aligns with our business model,” he said. 

A common thread among these designers is a clear vision for their brand’s future and a dedication to preserving traditional craftsmanship while pushing boundaries. 

Marco Castelli, founder of the brand Marco Castelli Collection, emphasizes tradition, attention to detail, and quality as the core of his business. “Craftsmanship and Made in Italy production are fundamental to the brand identity, and I believe that durability is the most important aspect of the products. I want to create high-quality items that stand the test of time.”

Similarly, Zarina Pistonesi’s Apice, an Italian brand launched in 2022, prioritizes small-scale, artisanal production, rejecting mass production in favor of exclusivity and quality. “We strive to stay true to our ideals and don’t compromise on quality, keeping our orders small due to our artisanal production process,” she explained. 

Daniella Pedraglio, founder of Canella, shared a similar approach, focusing on limited-edition pieces crafted entirely in Peru.

“Our production process is entirely based in Peru, and we create limited-edition pieces with a focus on quality and exclusivity,” she said. When asked about market penetration, she responded that “as an entrepreneur, navigating challenging periods is inevitable. However, staying true to your vision and purpose is crucial. It’s essential to recall why you embarked on this journey and remain committed to your values and goals.”