Giorgio Armani, Prada, Ralph Lauren, Umit Benan Picked by Retailers

MILAN — The Milan Fashion Week schedule was undoubtedly slimmer this season, but it still succeeded in offering plenty of choices for next spring, leaving retailers pleased with what they saw.

“This season felt like a reset — an invitation for men to dress with more freedom, emotion, and ease,” said Sophie Jordan, Mytheresa menswear buying director. “Designers embraced softness, color, and personality, moving away from rigidity without sacrificing elegance. It’s a season that captures where menswear is headed: confident, expressive, and distinctly modern. There was a clear shift this season — less boardroom, more beach.”

This meant an evolution from traditional tailoring “and embracing leisure: whether that meant pajama dressing, sport-inspired looks, or getaway-ready resortwear. It’s a reflection of how men want to live now — relaxed, considered, but always with style.”

This all translated into lightweight fabrics and more colors — from orange to burgundy, green and pastel tones — and patterns than in the past, with checks, stripes and summer versions of Prince of Wales or herringbone. Shorts, fluid pants and deconstructed jackets were a must across the board. There was a focus on accessories, shoes in particular — also super light and flexible as the loafers seen at Tod’s and Santoni, for example. The ’80s were back, including the double-breasted jacket, although unlined and with a more modern fit.

“While the Milan schedule felt light on traditional runway shows, the week was full of energy, with a packed calendar of events, presentations, and designer previews,” said Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew. “The season showcased the enduring strength of Italian craftsmanship, with designers offering modern interpretations of the dandy.”

Collections by Giorgio Armani, who surprised the industry by not taking a bow for the first time in his 50-year career recovering at home; Prada; Dolce & Gabbana; Umit Benan; Ralph Lauren Purple Label; Brioni and Brunello Cucinelli were among those that scored with retailers.

Young-Su Kim, divisional merchandise manager, men’s at Bergdorf Goodman

Favorite collections: Umit Benan was a standout for its impeccable quality that we’re certain will resonate with both our younger and more mature customers. The collection, which will launch at Goodman’s exclusively this fall, featured a dynamic and sartorial take on the trends of the season such as pastels, linens and silks, relaxed shoulders and volumes.

Best presentation concept: The Mordecai presentation was phenomenal, featuring real martial arts athletes periodically demonstrating combat moves but done in a way that was actually meant to evoke an embrace. The collection itself was a fantastic evolution of the brand’s codes, which we’ve seen perform extremely well with our customers since we exclusively launched the brand a few seasons ago.

Trendspotting: A color palette of earthy neutrals and pastels, from dusty rose to pale peach and oranges, was prevalent throughout the city. As were French and royal blues replacing navy, which will add some compelling new alternatives. Fabrics were fluid and fresh with linens mixed with wool and silk or cotton, draped to create a sense of ease, as we saw at Brioni, among others.

Must-have item: Brunello Cucinelli’s updated jacket, with more constructed shoulders, a wider lapel and longer length to create a nod to the slouchy 1980s silhouette. The nearly barefoot aesthetic in footwear brought us exceptional pieces like the bicolor drivers at Prada, as well as at Tod’s.

General comment on the season: There was a real focus on craft, the human touch, embrace, comfort, and sophistication. It’s about taking one’s time — like we saw at Kiton — to have a coffee, appreciate art or write a handwritten note. This season, Milan is emphasizing a back-to-basics human connection which is certainly worth celebrating.

Bruce Pask, senior director, men’s fashion at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus

Favorite collections: Dolce & Gabbana’s pajama party, dressing the man from day to night in loungewear, was fresh, fun and the designers at their best. Ralph Lauren’s pale, desert-toned looks in both technical and traditional fabrics inspired adventure. Brioni designer Norbert Stumpfl’s tailoring wizardry was exquisite with the most featherweight, impossibly soft constructions. Umit Benan’s pure, modern wardrobe for men, crafted from the most luxurious, fine fabrications, was stunning and beautifully presented in his new showroom and just-opened, modern art-filled store. Brunello Cucinelli’s collection of soft but structured tailoring, saturated, strong color and more voluminous pants — all influenced by early ’90s Italian men’s fashion editorials — was terrific. Church’s presented great new interpretations of their signature kiltie, Shanghai monk-strap shoe.

Best presentation concept: The garden of the glorious Palazzo Trivulzio just before sunset was the perfect setting for a Dunhill stroll. Mark Vanderloo sauntered by in a silk smoking jacket, followed by Clement Chabernaud in a belted evening robe, two hounds at heel. The elegant procession of gentlemen dressed in designer Simon Holloway’s modern English menswear wardrobe was transporting. 

Trendspotting: Many brands focused on “set dressing,” featuring looks created from multitasking wardrobe pieces. A variety of jacket options — from softly tailored jackets to convertible sport jackets, shirt jackets, lightweight outerwear and zip jackets — were paired back to matching pants, creating a new, versatile uniform. Ease is key. In the tailored world, the double-breasted jacket took top billing, with this historically dressy model styled in a more relaxed way: unbuttoned and paired with polo knits or button-front shirts open at the neck. It’s an incredibly easy, elegant look that was dominant at Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli, Sartorio and Umit Benan. Spectator sportswear was also a theme, with tennis-inspired collections from Bally, Sease and Brunello Cucinelli to dress the customer on and off the court, and sports references at Dunhill and Tod’s. Comfort-driven, flexible loafers were a key footwear statement and seen from Santoni, Tod’s, Church’s and others — offering versatility for dressing up more relaxed looks and giving tailored clothing a nice ease. Basket-woven leather casual shoe styles at Brunello Cucinelli, Santoni and Canali had a nice seasonal appeal. A surprising palette of dark and pale neutrals, along with spring hues of green and chalky, soft pinks, had a real freshness.

General comment on the season: Milan was lively and vibrant, with a robust schedule of runway shows, presentations and showroom walk-throughs filled with plenty of exciting direction for the new menswear season. There was a real focus on craft throughout the city, with artisans from Santoni, Brioni, Montblanc and Church’s exhibiting their specialized skills alongside their new collections — highlighting the importance of quality craftsmanship to our Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus customers.

Sophie Jordan, Mytheresa menswear buying director

Favorite collections: Ralph Lauren Purple Label delivered effortless sophistication this season. The interplay of ecru and beige in textured linens and Prince of Wales checks created a serene yet refined palette — the epitome of relaxed elegance. Brioni, too, struck a compelling balance between modernity and craft with beautifully executed tailoring in dusky greens, soft pinks, and navy silk — all quietly luxurious and deeply wearable.

Our Legacy continues to grow from strength to strength; it understands the pulse of the younger menswear audience better than most. Their denim remains unmatched, and there’s always that one jacket each season that fashion insiders are already scrambling to get their hands on.

Tod’s impressed this season with a broader offering beyond the classic Gommino — their suede and leather loafers and boat shoes were not only elevated in design, but the color palette felt particularly rich and on point.

Prada’s accessories collection stood out for its bold reinvention — the color-blocked nylon backpacks were a triumph, especially the navy with red and the baby pink with beige. They’re functional, fashion-forward, and unmistakably Prada.

Brunello Cucinelli’s bags were equally noteworthy — the new cherry red tone struck a masculine chord, and the updated holdall featuring woven leather and a Western-inspired buckle added depth to an already iconic silhouette.

Trendspotting: Stripes dominated the season — from literal pajama-inspired pieces, led by Dolce & Gabbana’s expressive silhouettes, to more nuanced expressions in softly tailored linen suiting and shirting from nearly every showroom. Even Prada nodded to the nautical.

Tailoring continues to evolve with a looser, more relaxed silhouette. Think oversized, double-breasted jackets and low-rise trousers — a modern shift that still feels grounded in luxury. Pastels played a key role too: Umit Benan’s pinks felt bold yet soft, while Brioni and Brunello Cucinelli offered more subdued takes in sage and olive — the latter, I believe, will become the go-to color update for the season.

In accessories, intricate weaving — particularly in leather and suede — added tactile dimension to timeless shapes, creating something both commercial and covetable.

Must-have pieces: Our Legacy’s “Angry Fan Mail” sweatshirt is both tongue-in-cheek and genius — transforming criticism into cult fashion. Their cowboy boots are also quietly simmering — likely to be a low-key hit.

Dolce & Gabbana’s striped pajamas are incredibly versatile. Whether layered under a cardigan and leather jacket for daytime, or worn lounging at home in ultimate style, they offer a playful take on modern menswear. The collection felt like a pure expression of what Dolce does best: unapologetically Italian, tailored for summer, and brimming with personality.

Budgets: We’re approaching this season with cautious optimism, planning for measured growth. While macroeconomic conditions remain dynamic, we’re seeing strong customer demand for seasonal, directional product that feels relevant and new. Our recent brand launches have exceeded expectations — so we’re continuing to seek out distinctive, high-potential labels that complement our evolving brand matrix.

 New talent to watch: Umit Benan delivered one of the most thoughtful collections of the season. His ability to blend timeless tailoring with subtle, wearable innovation is remarkable. There’s a clarity to his vision that feels fresh and confident. It’s the beginning of a lifestyle brand that could have real staying power — a modern classic in the making.

Raphaël Deray, buying manager for men’s luxury and designers, Printemps

Favorite collections: Pronounce and Dolce & Gabbana

Best presentation concept: Vivienne Westwood, always nice to have Italian coffee and breakfast.

Trendspotting: A lot of pop and pastel colors. It was pretty lightweight, with lots of linen, cotton poplin, see-through fabrics, silk and organza. In terms of patterns, we saw a lot of stripes and some animal prints as for last season. 

Must-have item: A light and fluid trenchcoat.

Budgets: Flat.

General comment on the season: A low-key season affected by the absence of historical houses such as Gucci, Fendi, Zegna… which also has an impact on the presence of emerging designers. 

Alice Feillard, menswear buying director, Galeries Lafayette

Favorite collections: Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Umit Benan, Setchu.

Best presentation concept: Vivienne Westwood’s humorous and punk presentation on a Sunday morning outside a typical Milanese [café].

Trendspotting: Casual yet refined formalwear, preppy classics, soft deconstructed and lightweight tailoring. Suede and leather are still strong; monochromatic faded colors (sand, mocha, cappuccino, light khakis and shades of grays); no prints but the season is colorful, with pale pastel tones or more vivid colors mixed together.

Must-have items: A cotton pajama matching set, double-breasted soft suit, cotton poplin shirting and short shorts, soft leather slippers/loafers, Japanese denim, classic raincoat, suede brown bomber jacket.

Budgets: Flat.

General comment on the season: Pitti Uomo was strong and busy while Milan Fashion Week felt a bit poor with big names missing. It left space for new talents, with some nice presentations and new formats. It is a safe season so far, turned towards heritage and classics, less conceptual and fashion forward. The luxury business may be uncertain these days but creativity is needed. Brands need to build more value and create desirability to get customers’ confidence back.

Andrea Bonecco, head of womenswear, menswear & kid’s, Rinascente

Favorite collections: Prada, Armani, Brunello Cucinelli and Dolce & Gabbana.

Best presentation concept: Vivienne Westwood’s presentation in a Milanese café, in the city center, well conveyed the concept of the dandy that Andreas Kronthaler wanted to express.

Trendspotting: The proposal of relaxed formalwear continues, [peaking] in the pajamas proposed by Dolce & Gabbana and the tracksuit by Prada.

Must-have items: An acetate tracksuit with slim trousers as opposed to more formal ones with softer shapes, boat moccasins, low-profile sneakers and pajamas worn for everyday occasions.

Budgets: The budget will be growing.

General comment on the season: Even if it lasted a few days, this fashion week and Pitti Uomo gave us the chance to immerse ourselves in the atmosphere that the designers wanted to represent, whether they were fashion shows or presentations. We also had the chance to intercept the key themes of this season.

Alessio Aramini, head of menswear, LuisaViaRoma

Favorite collections: The collection that, in my opinion, best embodies the trend we are experiencing right now is Prada. Elegant, yet at the same time featuring very current shapes and colors.

Best presentation concept: The most original presentation was definitely Sease’s, tennis-style and held in the courtyard of Portrait Milano.

Trendspotting: This season’s trend is definitely a return to formalwear, but mixed with comfort and perhaps a few vintage pieces.

Must-have items: Loafers are everywhere, but the classic or boat shoe versions are still the must-have item for this summer.

Buying process: In recent seasons, we’ve been trying to return a bit to the roots of our work and our boutique, seeking out still unknown or [emerging] brands with great potential, in order to rekindle consumers’ interest in exclusivity and novelty.

General comment on the season: This season there was a clear effort from many brands to balance innovation with timeless elegance. The atmosphere was vibrant and it’s encouraging to see both established and emerging designers pushing boundaries while remaining commercially relevant.

Jian DeLeon, men’s fashion director, Nordstrom

Favorite collections: Giorgio Armani, Prada, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Our Legacy, Canali, Dunhill, Umit Benan.

Best presentation concept: Prada’s sprawling warehouse adorned with floral rugs.

Trendspotting: Car culture seemed to be a running theme at several shows and presentations.

Must-have item: A silk double-breasted blazer from Umit Benan.

General comment on the season: Spring always calls for a more relaxed approach to tailoring but this season it seems even more traditional labels have found a way to make it their own.

Tiziana Fausti, owner of Tiziana Fausti and 10 Corso Como

Favorite collections: Prada with its simple carefreeness.

Trendspotting: Shorts are increasingly shorter; “car” shoes and “boat” shoes are protagonists; pastel colors and natural hues dominate the scene.

Must-have item: Prada shoes.

Budgets: Same as last year.

General comment on the season: Men’s fashion week started with great energy, preceded by Pitti Uomo rich in interesting ideas. In Florence, the Issey Miyake and Niccolò Pasqualetti shows were creative and original. In Milan, Prada  established itself with a collection that was strong and unique, offering season after season always something new while staying true to its own identity.

Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew

Favorite collections: Prada once again challenged conventional ideas of dressing. This season offered a fresh perspective on summer fashion, highlighting a new way to wear cotton poplins. Brunello Cucinelli focused on updating form and silhouette, channeling a relaxed and elegant feeling inspired by the ’80s. These new fits showcased entirely fresh stylistic combinations within ready-to-wear. Ralph Lauren Purple Label continued to lead with the lifestyle of his customer in mind. A full army of khaki looks demonstrated his strength in redefining classic sportswear for the modern consumer. While Mr. Armani was not present to take his final bow, this collection stood as the ideal manifesto for how men will want to dress in spring 2026. The silhouettes evoked an ’80s attitude with a modern twist, while his use of silk and linen in soft seaside tones was simply sublime.

Best presentation concept: Vintage luxury cars were in no short supply at nearly every presentation in Milan. Tod’s, Canali, and Ralph Lauren all enhanced their showcases with impressive automotive displays. Umit Benan took a more intimate approach with a quiet preview in his newly opened showroom and store. The collection was smart, sophisticated and carried an effortless attitude through the most luxurious fabrications.

Trendspotting: The spring 2026 collections embraced a spirit of wanderlust, with resort travel and sport emerging as dominant themes. Silhouettes were loose, light, and long. Brands like Kiton, Eleventy, and Ralph Lauren presented relaxed, fluid suiting crafted in silk and linen blends. We loved the evolution of the trouser, seen in looser fits with pleated details — especially at Ralph Lauren. Pajama dressing also stood out, with Dolce & Gabbana leading the way through their crystal-embellished pajama party that closed the show. Sport and technical influences made a strong showing as well. Emporio Armani, Brunello Cucinelli, and Bally all introduced sport and tennis capsules that made us excited to bring fashion to the courts.

Must-have items: Tod’s hush puppy boot, Prada’s fringed boat shoe and color-blocked nylon bags, Dolce & Gabbana pajama, Brunello Cucinelli silk nylon windbreaker, Ralph Lauren linen suit, Kiton paper leather trench coat, Jacob Cohen relaxed jean trouser, and Canali “Nuvola” trench 

Buying process: Our buying strategy this season is centered on highlighting the best that each brand has to offer. We are curating our assortment to meet the multifunctional needs of our customers, ensuring that every piece serves both style and purpose.

General comment on the season: While the Milan schedule felt light on traditional runway shows, the week was full of energy, with a packed calendar of events, presentations, and designer previews. The season showcased the enduring strength of Italian craftsmanship, with designers offering modern interpretations of the dandy. The spring 2026 collections delivered a renewed vision of formal dressing that emphasized lightness, comfort, innovative materials, and sophisticated ease. We are excited to bring the spirit of Italian design to our Canadian customers this spring.

Simon Longland, fashion buying director, Harrods

Favorite collections: Brioni, Dunhill, and Dolce & Gabbana delivered some of the strongest menswear collections this season. Each offered a distinct perspective rooted in excellence: Brioni for its effortless elegance, Dunhill for a modern yet timeless take on tailoring, and Dolce & Gabbana for the confidence and charm that defined every look.

Best presentation concept: Dunhill stood out with a beautifully staged presentation in a hidden private garden in the heart of Milan — intimate, serene, and entirely in tune with the collection’s refined aesthetic. Dolce & Gabbana also made a memorable impact by taking the show’s finale outside, offering the public a moment of shared celebration and connecting the brand to its wider audience.

Trendspotting: This season felt less about “trends” and more about lifestyle — a clear shift toward clothes that speak to permanence and identity over momentary statements. That said, we saw a consistent language across collections: Soft, neutral palettes — from stone and sand to putty, khaki, and rust; relaxed tailoring that still reflects the precision of master craftsmanship; matching sets — plain or printed, whether shirts and shorts or jackets and trousers; ultra-lightweight fabrics that drape and move effortlessly, and elevated jogging sets, notably seen at Prada, showing how comfort and polish can coexist.

Must-have item: This season wasn’t about a single item. The real takeaway was a collective reinforcement of values: quality, consistency, and longevity. That’s the message Milan delivered — and what resonates most with the Harrods man.

General comment on the season: With several key players absent from the official schedule, this edition of Milan Men’s Fashion Week relied heavily on presentations. But what emerged was a renewed focus on sartorial finesse, technical fabrics, and a lifestyle-led approach to dressing. Italy continues to lead when it comes to mastering elegance, material innovation, and the needs of a sophisticated, grown-up customer.