Princess Diana is the theme of a new auction at Julien’s, opening for bids on Monday at 9 a.m. ET. Described as a tribute to the fashion, royalty and the enduring influence of the late Princess of Wales, the “Princess Diana’s Style & a Royal Collection” auction will feature iconic pieces from her wardrobe, including her signature red nylon ski outfit, custom-made pieces by Gianni Versace and her floral “caring dress.”
“Princess Diana’s timeless style continues to captivate the world decades after her passing, and we are honored to present one of the most comprehensive collections of her fashion and personal items ever to come to auction,” Martin Nolan, cofounder and executive director of Julien’s Auctions, told WWD via statement. “From her iconic Versace suits to rare couture daywear by Catherine Walker and Bellville Sassoon, these pieces reflect Diana’s evolution from royal newlywed to global humanitarian and style icon. Each item tells a story of grace, elegance and fearless individuality — hallmarks of the woman who remains one of the most beloved figures of the 20th century.”
The auction will also include a selection of accessories, including shoes worn by Diana and designer bags, such as one of her Lady Dior handbags. Here, WWD takes a closer look at some of the highlights from “Princess Diana’s Style & a Royal Collection.”
Princess Diana’s 1986 Catherine Walker Falcon Evening Gown — Estimate: $200,000-$300,000
Catherine Walker designed this silk crepe embroidered evening gown for Diana’s 1986 royal tour of Saudi Arabia. The dress featured a high neckline and long Guinevere-style point sleeves to accommodate local dressing customs. It includes sequins, beading and embroidery of falcons with spread wings that begin at the left shoulder.
The lot property comes with a book, “Diana Princess of Wales, a Tribute by Tim Graham,” which features a picture of Diana with Christopher Balfour at Christie’s viewing the Catherine Walker dress on exhibition in New York during the 1997 auction “Dresses From the Collection of Diana, Princess of Wales.”
Princess Diana’s “Caring Dress” — Estimate: $100,000-$200,000
Princess Diana in 1998.
Tim Graham Photo Library via Get
Designed by Belville Sassoon in 1988, this silk floral dress was worn by Diana on numerous occasions. She was photographed wearing the dress in Sydney on Jan. 31, 1988; Windsor, U.K., on June 29, 1988; Lagos in March 1990; London in May 1990; São Paulo on April, 29, 1991; the Universal Exposition of Seville, Spain, on May 21, 1992, and visiting the Lighthouse Project for AIDS, in July 1992.
The frock was dubbed “Caring Dress” by designer David Sassoon as Diana wore it often when visiting hospitals and sitting with patients. It featured a floral-patterned blue crepe-de-chine day fabric with a pastel floral print, high crew neck, ruched bodice and knee-length skirt.
Princess Diana’s 1987 Bruce Oldfield Floral Suit — Estimate: $100,000-$200,000
Princess Diana in 1987
Getty Images
Diana was photographed wearing the Bruce Oldfield two-piece yellow and floral-patterned silk suit on June 17, 1987, while attending Royal Ascot. She was accompanied by Queen Elizabeth II and Sarah Ferguson, Duchess of York, at the event.
The custom Bruce Oldfield dress has a fitted bodice that shapes the waist and hips, with a gathered front and a knotted tie. The pencil skirt ends just above the knee. Both pieces are lined with a silk-blend fabric.
Princess Diana’s Head Red Ski Suit — Estimate: $30,000-$50,000
Diana, Princess of Wales wearing a red ski suit in Klosters on Feb. 6, 1986.
WireImage
Diana was seen in her iconic red ski suit multiple times from 1985 to 1992. The deep-scarlet colored ski outfit is fully insulated and features an asymmetric zip closure and funnel neckline. The ensemble, created by Baltimore-based brand Head, has a blouson-style bodice with dropped shoulders and dolman sleeves. In contrast, the suit pants are fitted and streamlined, complementing the volume of the bodice.
The ski suit has evolved into a fashion symbol frequently mentioned in style publications. Diana showcased the ski suit in 1986 with a braided headband and gold hoop earrings, and later in 1991, she sported it with a cropped bob haircut and bold black frame sunglasses.
Princess Diana’s Three-Piece Escada Suit — Estimate: $30,000-$50,000
Diana was photographed wearing this Escada suit six times for public engagements, including while visiting Bayswater Families Doctors Practice in Paddington on Feb. 22, 1989, and at the Centrepoint Hostel in Lewisham, London, on March 6, 1992.
The ensemble features a gray cashmere double-breasted blazer with bright blue pinstripes, a matching skirt and a sapphire blue silk blouse or bodysuit.
Princess Diana’s Gianni Versace Couture Pantsuit — Estimate: $30,000-$50,000
Gianni Versace, one of the first international designers to design for Princess Diana in the 1990s, created this single-breasted pantsuit for her. It included a single-breasted jacket and a pair of high-waisted pants. The jacket has matte black buttons, a foldover collar, square shoulders, a contoured waist and shaping at the hips. The pants are high-waisted with creased legs.
The outfit is similar to one of the designs in his spring 1997 ready-to-wear collection.
Pale Blue Gianni Versace — Estimate: $30,000-$50,000
Versace created this ice blue sheath-style evening dress with gold-tone buttons that run the length of the side seams. The dress showcased a minimalist design, highlighted by a high neckline and quilting embellishments along the side seams and hem. A concealed zip closure is located at the back, enhanced by a hook-and-eye fastening to secure the top of the neckline. The dress is fully lined with coordinated silk and features a Gianni Versace Couture label stitched inside the neckline.
Princess Diana’s Atelier Versace Lilac Skirt Suit — Estimate: $30,000-$50,000
Another Versace creation for Diana is this three-piece matching skirt suit that includes a jacket, a sleeveless blouse and a skirt.
On the jacket’s interior, embroidered on the lilac silk lining, is a letter “D” with a Greek key circle border. Paired with the jacket is a sleeveless silk crepe blouse with a hidden side zip closure, linked with georgette silk, and a fitted knee-length pencil skirt.
Princess Diana’s 1995 Catherine Walker Black Cocktail Dress — Estimate: $20,000-$30,000
Diana was first photographed wearing this Catherine Walker little black dress on Sept. 27, 1994, at the photographer Gemma Levine’s Wimpole Street studio. She later rewore the dress for the grand opening of London Fashion Week in 1994, and while on an official visit to Hong Kong in 1995.
The style showcases a V-neckline adorned with cording, along with a beaded surface decoration and embroidery on both the bodice and peplum of the gown. The skirt, designed in a draped sarong style with a knee-length hem, complements the fitted bodice. A concealed zip closure located at the back of the dress is entirely lined in black silk and includes a Catherine Walker label stitched into the interior neckline.
Princess Diana’s 1997 British Lung Foundation Sweatshirt — Estimate: $10,000-$20,000
Princess Diana
Tim Graham Photo Library via Get
Diana wore this white crew-neck sweatshirt with a British Lung Foundation screen-printed graphic while going to the Chelsea Harbor Club with her son, Prince Harry. The sweatshirt features a fleece interior, a ribbed collar, cuffs and hem, as well as two interior labels: one is a trademark label for the British Lung Foundation, and the other is Screen Stars by Fruit of Loom.
This lot comes with a copy of People Magazine featuring a supporting image.
Princess Diana’s 1981 Honeymoon Send Off John Boyd Peach Pink Straw Archer Style Hat — Estimate: $20,000-$40,000
Diana was photographed wearing this John Boyd peach colored straw archer hat on July 29, 1981, following her wedding to Prince Charles, now King Charles III, for her honeymoon send-off. The hat was custom-made to match Princess Diana’s Belville Sassoon peach pink colored skirt suits. The lot property comes with a copy of “Diana: Her Latest Fashions,” text by Alison Janaway, wearing the John Boyd hat on July 29, 1981.
Princess Diana’s Lady Dior Lambskin Handbag — Estimate: $20,000-$30,000
Initially named the ChouChou, this Dior bag was renamed to Lady Dior as a tribute to Diana, who would often carry the style in her public appearances. The box-shaped tote features top-stitching that mirrors the couture houses’ cane-back chairs, two rounded leather handles with gold-tone links, a zipper opening at the top and a gold-tone “CD” pull. The interior is lined with matching lambskin leather and features an open compartment as well as interior pockets.
Princess Diana’s 1996 Prada Milano Champagne-Colored Leather Tote — Estimate: $8,000-$12,000
Diana was photographed with this Prada champagne leather tote during official visits to Moscow, Russia, in June 1995, Pakistan in February 1996, and Chicago in June 1996. The tote is made of champagne-colored lambskin and features nylon gussets accented with gold link chain handles with woven leather.
“Princess Diana’s Style & a Royal Collection” will open for bids at 9 a.m. ET at juliensauctions.com. The auction is scheduled for June 26.
