PARIS — Not just clothes. Jewelry seen here during fashion week showed range, covering a spectrum of inspirations and aesthetics.
From heritage pieces tweaked to meet modern demands to nature-inspired delicate creations, passing through sinuous designs intended to be stacked and statement ones doubling as conversation starters, here’s a roundup of precious accessories for every taste.
Boucheron
Creative director Claire Choisne looked back at Boucheron’s rich archives to launch the Serpent Bohème Vintage collection, which pays tribute to an iconic necklace the Kering-owned brand introduced in 1974.
Its snakeskin-like gold chain and hefty pendant have been reworked and streamlined, with the original cabochon-cut onyx and coral stones arranged in the central floral pattern giving way to brilliant-cut diamonds in pear-shaped motifs. Choisne also imbued a sense of versatility in the line — which includes 15 designs spanning from jewelry to high jewelry — as she worked on new supersized, high-impact pieces that can be worn in different ways.
A necklace from Boucheron’s Serpent Bohème Vintage collection.
Courtesy of Boucheron
The three main necklaces in the collection kept faith to the original, with one monochrome high jewelry version in fully diamond-pavéd white gold and the other two retaining the same size of the seminal piece but additionally convertible into a shorter necklace, a brooch and a pair of bracelets that could also be linked to result in a choker.
A brushed yellow gold cuff spotlighting the floral motif was another standout of the collection, which included a double-finger ring paved with diamonds, a subtler pendant, stud and hoop earrings, too.
Repossi
Repossi unveiled a new chapter of its Chromatic Sapphires collection, first introduced in 2022 to celebrate its partnership with Moyo Gems, a responsible miner-to-market gemstone initiative born in East Africa and aimed at empowering women miners, improving their safety and financial security.
Adding to the 64 pieces created so far, the 16 new designs centered on sapphires in emerald, pear, oval and cushion cuts from the Umba Valley in Tanzania, which have been assembled to honor five women miners who discovered them. Enhancing the unique feat of the sapphires from this region to change color depending on their exposure to light, the gems were set on Repossi’s signature Serti sur Vide designs, recognizable by their floating stones constructions.
A new ring included in Repossi’s Chromatic Sapphires collection.
Courtesy of Repossi
Presented here before travelling to Monaco, London, Tokyo, New York and Dubai, the line included rings, earrings, earcuffs and pendants crafted from pink and white gold and spotlighting sapphires’ charming pastel shades of orange, pink, purple and gray-green, among others.
Aurélie Bidermann
The apple doesn’t fall far from the tree: it goes straight in your jewelry box thanks to Aurélie Bidermann’s latest collection inspired by the Garden of Eden. The forbidden fruit lends its pips to the Difenda line, which clustered them into a sculptural cuff, earrings and brooches. Its silhouette also appears in enamel on the brand’s Positano bracelet.
Aurélie Bidermann
Courtesy of Aurélie Bidermann
Meanwhile, another lush option is a fig leaf folded into the Ledena cuff. Rounding out a tempting lineup were bracelets and earrings figuring Adam and Eve.
D’heygere
With her unique approach to jewelry, Stéphanie D’heygere always stands apart, her quirky creations oozing fun and wit. For fall 2025, the Paris-based Belgian accessories designer presented a collection dubbed “Dear Diary,” in a nod to her teenage years, including her frequent visits to the Claire’s retail chain of democratic accessories.
“I used to go there a lot and I actually still do because they have a little bit of everything: those hair accessories, or the ones for the nails or I love when they sell like 20 earrings together,” said D’heygere, whose latest designs riffed on all things girly.
Cue plenty of pink ribbons tied in pretty bows on chain necklaces and metal headbands, or extremely kawaii earrings shaped as colorful stiletto nails embellished with animals, hearts, stars and piercings, which were developed with nail artist Nails by Mei.
A necklace from D’heygere’s fall 2025 collection.
Noemie Ninot/Courtesy of D’heygere
More rebel princesses could count on heart- or star-shaped hoop earrings, a five-strand choker and even a tiara made by earring backings for a spiky effect, or metal single earrings designed to carry a lighter. Yet nothing spoke louder of ‘90s teenage love than D’heygere’s maxi take on the traditional heart-locket necklace and matching single earrings which carried images of a young Leonardo DiCaprio.
Begüm Khan
Begüm Kıroğlu is also a maximalist at heart. She offers a different perspective on the more-is-more trend, though, one strongly hinged on her famous bestiary and botanical language filled with sparkly scarabs, queen bees, frogs and mushrooms as well as maxi orchids and lilies popping up on her statement necklaces, earrings and brooches. Her latest designs mingled the two references — and more — as little turtles appeared on dazzling flowers punctuated by pearls.
Jewelry by Begüm Khan.
Courtesy of Begüm Khan
Mira Stella
A more discreet approach informed Sophie Bouilhet-Duma’s delicate creations for her brand Mira Stella, which are mostly inspired by flowers and nature.
Although she had previously worked on ceramics as artistic director of British porcelain house Thomas Goode and created objects for Burberry, Paul Smith and Hermès, where her husband Pierre-Alexis Dumas is artistic director, Bouilhet-Dumas found in 18-karat gold an ideal way to turn natural beauties into permanent ones to wear every day. For example, she released a line dedicated to the garden orache, one of the ornamental and edible plants in her Normandy garden.
Earrings by Mira Stella.
Courtesy of Mira Stella
Pendants capturing the shape of a garden orache seed and its textures were mounted on a waxed cord bracelet or on a fish hook back with oak bark texture to result in understated earrings to wear like little everyday talismans.
Bibi van der Velden
Why wait 60 years for a diamond anniversary? The Dutch designer is marking her label’s 20th with them. “Usually for me, it’s very much about the design and organic shapes and then stones are part of it, but not center stage,” she told WWD. More abstract takes on her crocodile designs were therefore on offer as earrings, necklaces, bracelets and studs, all featuring white diamonds.
Bibi van der Velden ring.
Courtesy of Bibi van der Velden
But that’s not to say van der Velden’s veering away from her signatures. “This is a little sidestep to try and find something that is that clean and that simple but still holds the essence of the brand,” she said.
There are also plenty of her scarab rings, jellyfish earrings and even Egyptian amulets enclosed in small glass globes, compounding on the idea of timeless treasures.
Boochier
Childhood memories of beachside summers inspired Melinda Zeman for Boochier’s fall collection. A huge fan of seashells herself, she felt this shared memories with family and friends needed a precious interpretation.
The Boochier starfish pendant and Slinkee necklace.
Courtesy of Boochier
Cue sizable seashells studded with sapphires and hard stones cut to create a colorful outline for pendants but also a starfish motif outlined in mother-of-pearl that was shown on a Slinkee necklace featuring a string of gradient pearls, owing to her recent obsession with pearls, particularly Tahitian ones and their gray palette. “I feel like pearls are traditionally quite classic, so I really loved the idea of using them in a much more childlike, playful, whimsical way,” she told WWD.
Pen Mané
Named after a storied house perched on a cliff at the tip of the Quiberon peninsula in France’s Brittany region, newly minted jewelry brand Pen Mané is the brainchild of designer Vincent Guy Raffé, a veteran of the industry who considers JAR’s Joel Arthur Rosenthal and Michelle Ong Cheung of Carnet as mentors.
Embodying his idea of jewelry as a symbol of a personal journey and unique beauty, the first designs span the Quarter line, which interpreted resilience through metal with a trail of hand-placed diamonds; the full-pavé Eternity range, and Sphere, which looks like a ring with a diamond crashed into its motif.
Pen Mané
Courtesy of Pen Mané
Available in yellow, rose, white and black gold, the range spans earrings, rings and cuff bracelets set with natural diamonds. Prices start from $1,500 for rings and over $20,000 for bangles, averaging around $4,500.
Riefe
Japanese jeweler Rie Harui explored jewelry’s symbolic connection to love, trust and promises binding two hearts together in the Commitment collection.
“In a world rich with diversity, it honors various forms of love and respects individual values beyond conventional definitions, celebrating sincere and authentic expressions of devotion,” she stated.
Rings from the Commitment collection.
Courtesy of Riefe
There’s the Fidelity ring, which features an off-center princess-cut stone; the Cherish design featuring blue sapphires set point upward on yellow gold, and Mending, which figures stitches in yellow gold keeping white gold bands together.
Kinraden
“Everything we do leaves a mark on the world, others and ourselves,” said creative director and founder Sarah Emilie Müllertz. She cited the work of Marina Abramović — the artist’s Golden Mask work from 2009 was on the jeweler’s mood board — as the starting point for the Imprint collection.
Kinraden Imprint ring.
Courtesy of Kinraden
Seamlessly joined were fully recycled silver in organic curves with Mpingo blackwood that was carved diamond-sharp in delicate graduated shapes using specially developed machines.
Shihara
Tokyo-based designer Yuta Ishihara expanded on his 15-year-old brand’s approach of offering streamlined jewels where clasps, posts and catches become invisible features.
For fall, he revisited the pearl strand in the Node collection, where box-shaped clasps secured rows of 3.5mm Akoya pearls but could also be repositioned in multiple ways.
A Shihara x Michael Anastassiades earring.
Courtesy of Shihara
There was also a continuation of the collaboration with industrial designer Michael Anastassiades, this time translating his Mobile Chandelier series into minimalist structures of yellow gold with pearls carefully placed as counterweights.
Yutai
Think 20 knots is only a speed for boats? It’s also how many knots were needed for the masterpiece necklace in the Modular series of Shihara’s sister brand Yutai, where he explored color.
Ishihara wanted to create multistrand necklaces but that’s not possible using conventional tying techniques. He engineered a graphic gold connecting piece of hardware that allows a single string to become two, three or more strands in the same jewel, increasing or decreasing the width.
The Yutai Modular necklace.
Courtesy of Yutai
The brand’s Paris showroom was also an opportunity to see new iterations of the Fused Gems series, in pendants and earrings, and the Sectional necklaces, which feature one-half of a pearl spliced with a second side in semi-precious stones or gold.
Dévé
Rooted in Mediterranean heritage, the Dévé demi-fine jewelry brand launched by Estelle Dévé continued to draw inspiration from the founder’s upbringing in Southern France and Catalonia, as well as in the bold aesthetics of Modernist architects and the organic shapes of artists like Salvador Dalí.
The brand’s new collection leaned more on the former reference, overall referencing the Cité Radieuse revolutionary building designed by Le Corbusier in Marseille, in its use of semi-precious gemstones in bold, primary colors set on curved silhouettes. Other nods to Le Corbusier’s work informed specific pieces, like the “Le Cabonon” asymmetric earrings, featuring pebbles and mismatched gemstones such as red jasper, malachite, turquoise and tiger’s eye. Available in sterling silver 925 or 18-karat gold vermeil, they are named after the designer’s most modest residential project dating back to 1951 and intended as a gift for his wife Yvonne.
Le Cabanon earrings by Dévé.
Courtesy of Dévé
K Salamoon
Nature is a recurrent inspiration for Carole Salamoun and her K Salamoon designs. The spin-off project of W. Salamoon & Sons — the storied jewelry house established by Wadih Salamoun in Beirut in 1907 — the brand was launched by the founder’s granddaughter not to dilute the high-end positioning of the original house, as she is looking to attract a new generation of consumers with more contemporary and purpose-driven lines.
Most of the time these are linked to social and environmental initiatives, including raising awareness about the effect of climate change. For one, Salamoun expanded the Arctic Splendors collection recalling the shape of glaciers in danger due to global warming with new, sinuous creations crafted from yellow gold and, for the first time, punctuated by colorful gems.
A piece by K Salamoon.
Courtesy of K Salmon
L’Atelier Nawbar
Fellow Lebanese fine jewelry brand L’Atelier Nawbar, which boasts a heritage dating back to 1891 and has been revamped to attract modern customers by the fourth generation of Nawbars, looked at the ‘90s but through the lens of a woman delving into her mother’s jewelry box, filled with retro-influenced pieces sourced at auctions or collected during her trips around the world.
The collection played on some key themes of the brand, giving its signature protective evil eye symbol a surrealist twist or emphasizing the label’s approach to jewelry stacking with minimal earrings and rings inspired by the shape of the snake.
Rings by L’Atelier Nawbar.
Courtesy of L’Atelier Nawbar
The brand also introduced jewelry targeting men, as demand from this sector is on the rise. Crafted from silver or gold, these items were also conceived as charms and little souvenirs one can take back home from trips around the world.
