Jenny Packham is on a Napoleonic streak, and can’t seem to get enough of the long lines and neoclassical-inspired silhouettes of the era.
For pre-fall, she looked at post-Revolutionary France — and 1990s minimalism — and she continued in that vein for this latest outing, looking at Napoleonic France and taking the 19th century socialite Juliette Récamier as her muse.
Récamier was famous for her literary and political salons, and sense of style. She inspired many painters, including Jacques-Louis David, who depicted her lying on a style of chaise longue, now known as a recamier.
“I liked her style and personality,” said Packham, adding that she set out to create strong, elegant “power play” clothing.
Her collection of eveningwear was spare, elegant and befitting a Roman, or Napoleonic, empress.
A strapless, columnar dress hit the floor in a shower of silver and gold sequins, while other gowns came with long billowy capes, military-style metallic embellishment on the shoulders or shiny fringes on the sleeves, a nod to France’s first emperor, Napoleon.
There was more military flair in the shape of slim black gowns with gold embroidery that resembled bracelets on the sleeves, or medallion designs scattered across the front. One dress with long sleeves and a high neck was paved in gold sequins — for iconic women only.
Packham said that sales of cocktail dresses are “storming ahead” and she delivered more than ever this season.
They, too, had military rigor and shine. There were T-shirt and A-line dresses awash with silver and gold spangles and fringe, and a royal blue style with a tiered skirt shot through with silvery thread. Every last one deserved a salute.
