MILAN — The 127th edition of Mipel, the trade show dedicated to leather goods and fashion accessories, painted a mixed picture as it unfolded at Fiera Milano-Rho from Feb. 23 to 25. Looking ahead, the event is set to temporarily shift to early September for the next season.
More than 200 brands participated in the fair, including notable comebacks such as Biasia, Bonfanti, Caterina Lucchi and Gabs in the handbag segment, as well as Travelite and Titan on the travel front.
The atmosphere in the booths was lively — buoyed by a significant presence of international buyers from Japan, China, France, Spain, Germany, Greece and Turkey — despite the less-than-optimistic figures released by Confindustria Moda Accessories Center for the first nine months of 2024.
Exports in the sector dropped by 9.4 percent overall, with leather bags declining by 12.5 percent. The industry’s total revenue for 2024 is projected to fall below 12 billion euros, a drop of more than 1 billion euros compared to 2023, marking an 8.4 percent decrease.
“The economic climate remains challenging, but as an exhibition, we are pleased with the diverse and high-level attendance. We have noticed a strong need for in-person presence at the fair, reversing the post-COVID trend when many relied on online research. This is crucial for a product like ours, which needs to be touched, weighed, even smelled,” Claudia Sequi, president of Mipel and Assopellettieri, told WWD.
However, Sequi voiced concerns over potential U.S. tariffs on European imports. “We fear them because they would primarily impact our mid-to-high segment, which, unlike the luxury market, would struggle to absorb another price increase. The U.S., with revenues of 865.4 million euros from January to September 2024, is second only to France in terms of business volume and accounts for 11 percent of our exports. This underscores the strong appetite for Italian products as well as the risks we face if Europe fails to deter President Donald Trump from his plans,” she added.
As the industry waits for developments on that front, Mipel is planning a temporary early September edition alongside concurrent trade shows Micam Milano, TheOne Milano by Micam Milano, Milano Fashion & Jewels — also held at the fairgrounds — and Lineapelle, with which it usually only partially overlaps.
“To accommodate preparations for the Milan-Cortina 2026 Winter Olympics, the 128th edition of Mipel will take place from Sept. 7 to 9. This will require a significant organizational effort from companies, and for now, we see this date change as temporary. However, it will be a test to see if moving to early September allows us to better capture the budgets of overseas buyers, who would then be at the start of their European trips,” Sequi explained.
Going back to the 127th edition, a new four-year partnership was launched between Mipel and ViaMadeInItaly, a 24/7 digital platform designed to instantly connect Italian companies with international buyers — including retailers, distributors, agents and brands looking for manufacturers — who might otherwise struggle to establish direct synergies.
Another highlight was the success of Mipel Factory: The Leather Lab, an area recreating a leather goods production workshop equipped with cutting-edge machinery featuring automated vision systems and artificial intelligence, showcasing the evolution of production techniques while preserving artisanal craftsmanship.
As for trends, large shapes are making a strong comeback, along with solid-color or animal-print pony hair and a preference for bold hues alternating with dark brown.
