Faded oriental carpets overlapping on the floor of Ilenia Durazzi’s headquarters set the tone for the bold, crafty direction the designer took this season.
Committed to moving at her own pace and charting her own path within the industry — damn be TikTok trends and algorithm-driven insights — Durazzi embraced an anarchic vibe, loosening the sharp lines of her signature tailoring and upping the textures.
She opted for tapestry-like fabrics, chunky textiles and handcrafted patchworks that conveyed the DIY vibe she started to toy with in previous seasons but were here expressed with more vigor, shedding a new light on her sophisticated aesthetic and the equestrian inspiration she has anchored her brand in.
The boldest expressions came via dresses with asymmetric panels, here cut from thick fabrications and dense patterns, in which Durazzi balanced structure and movement. Adding to her experimental approach, she mixed mannish pinstripe and checkered fabrics in different scales either in single pieces like a standout kilt or via layering, especially in the more tailored looks.
To be sure, Durazzi’s penchant for uniforms — either military or equestrian — informed wool coats, fringed pinstripe shirts and see-through muslin options, that were integrated with the more eccentric numbers.
Overall, fringes and frayed hems injected a sense of rawness. Knitwear appealed with the same unfinished vibe, as seen in tapestry patches sewn on ribbed long vests or crewneck sweaters purposely distressed by hand.
But if one’s looking for a single investment item, there were few wrong choices in Durazzi’s outerwear lineup. It would be hard to pick among a double cashmere long coat punctuated by D-shaped buckles and frayed viscose grosgrain details and its caban counterpart; a shiny maxi parka; a more subdued coat with a shearling lining; a checkered shawl-like number, or a collarless vinyl jacket.
Then again, in its simplicity and quality, the roomy leather bomber jacket has all it takes to be the understated star of one’s wardrobe for a long time.
