A plastic H-line dress encasing Polaroids of everyday moments stood out in the lighthearted collection Francesca Murri designed for fall 2025, which marked a step forward in her revamp of the Fiorucci brand, while honoring its legacy.
Impractical yet fun, the look was imbued with a nostalgic feel but also reminiscent of a wearable Instagram feed, best expressing the tension between past and present and clash of elements Murri injected in the collection. To be sure, the designer continued to build on the concept of utopia introduced last season, here imagining a surreal happy place – and wardrobe – where the boundaries between fake and real, summer and winter, young and old, were blurred.
Cue the opening video clip flashing different milestones of one’s life from childhood to maturity and the backdrop later appearing on the set’s maxi screen – a postcard-like picture of an imaginary holiday destination where palm trees stand against snowy mountains and an outdoor pool is flanked by show-clad cabins.
How to pack for such a gateway? Murri suggested a pop, easy-to-approach hodgepodge, as she kept shapes unfussy in her playful mix of formal and casual and juxtaposition of fabrics like pinstripe wool and chevron with natural latex, recycled PVC and neoprene.
Loud prints and trompe-l’œil effects alternated with quieter tailoring and sportswear, as seen in looks layering blazers over tracksuit-inspired long dresses. Elsewhere, printed puffers and bomber jackets were worn over swimsuits and sheer frocks; summery slip dresses and broderie anglaise sets with palms and heart-shaped motifs flanking corduroy hoodies and furry coats, while cropped knits revealed shirts splashed with Hawaiian florals underneath.
As part of the official Milan Fashion Week schedule, the runway show further signaled the new management’s serious commitment in its repositioning strategy for the brand. Even in this institutional framework that clashes with the original disruptive spirit of the label, the company tried to pay justice to its inclusive roots by inviting 400 fashion students to attend the event.
“It’s in the brand’s DNA to bring Fiorucci and its contents closer to a bigger audience, that goas beyond the fashion one. This [move] has been a first step toward the democratization of Fiorucci,” said chief executive officer Alessandro Pisani, who also teased the opening of a virtual store in Milan’s San Babila area, where the late founder first installed his famed emporium, for later this year.
