Erdem Moralioglu is back in the land of the living, working in tandem with the painter and fellow Royal College of Art graduate Kaye Donachie on a grand collection filled with couture shapes, florals and watery female portraits.
For more seasons than even he can probably recall, Moralioglu has drawn inspiration from creatives, writers and social figures from the past. His cast of historical characters includes Deborah “Debo” Devonshire, the late Duchess of Devonshire, Maria Callas, the novelist Radclyffe Hall, and the artist and gardener Derek Jarman.
It was a big deal for the designer to tear his eyes away from the history books, and focus on a contemporary character.
“I’ve always wanted to do a collaboration with her, and it was really the first time I’ve ever done a collaboration with an artist, and actually, to be fair, to make a collection about someone who’s alive,” said the designer, who had previously commissioned Donachie to create a portrait of his late mother as a young woman.
“Kaye’s portraits feel like a ghost of something. They’re not real in a way,” said the designer, who turned Donachie’s original line drawings into prints, embroideries and embellishments across this lavish collection.
Donachie’s blurred flowers, pale colors and soft-edged portraits of women appeared on sheer organza dresses, raw-edged silk ones and cocooning coats. They were like watercolors come to life right there on the ground floor of the British Museum.
Three-dimensional flowers blossomed across a rich terrain of soft leather, merino wool and jersey. Those blooms came stitched in black on a gray knit sweater and skirt; in burgundy on soft pink knit dress; and white on a dark leather coat, their fabric stems hanging loosely and fluttering as models walked.
Long curving gowns with a couture feel came paved with flowers in saturated monochrome tones of claret and navy blue.
Meanwhile, other long dresses and coats came in rich, embellished cloque or awash in colorful, fringed sequins. A bright blue sequin coat and mint green dress both sparkled under the bright lights like exotic sea creatures.
The painterly flowers also blossomed across the new handbag collection, with curving brass tulips serving as handles on Erdem’s new — and growing — collection of Bloom bags.
All the color, texture and feminine shapes were a sensual treat, and proof that the here and now can be just as inspirational as the past.
