Simone Rocha’s spunky fall collection toyed with high school stereotypes: jocks, nerds, tomboys, rebels and emos.
Backstage, the Irish designer said she slotted in with the emos, indulging herself for the fashion show with a “teenage angst playlist.”
Thom Yorke’s wailing added a yearning melancholy to the display as an all-ages, coed cast whisked through the grandeur of Goldsmiths’ Hall like they were late for class.
Some models hugged tortoise figurines; others wrapped or draped themselves with fuzzy stoles shaped like extra-long, boneless hares. Rocha said “Aesop’s Fable” was a favorite of her headmistress, and nostalgia for her school years fed her seasonal narrative.
The fluffy rabbit companions served as a tender foil to the tougher elements woven through the collection — belts as rugged as bike chain locks, S&M-esque harnesses, and a terrific elaboration of biker jackets as puff-sleeve dresses, waist-cinched skirt suit or military greatcoat.
Many guests at the show dolled themselves up in recent Rocha collections, which can skew costume-y at times. Some outfits brought to mind magistrates, ballerinas or Victorian damsels.
Her fall collection hinged on more relatable clothing archetypes, all given that inimitable romantic Rocha touch: jeans jackets and perfectos with ballooning sleeves; Neoprene hoodies and duffel coats studded with jet-bead embroideries, and rugby shirts iced with ruffles and dense pearl beading.
Carwash skirts — somehow synonymous with seminal Miuccia Prada — recurred in sparkly tweeds, faux fur and gossamer organza, heightening the glamor and sensuality of many looks.
Suppressing her brooding emo urges, Rocha also paraded some of her most unapologetically pretty dresses in years, lacing pink, baby blue or black ribbons through intricate brocades, and letting yet more ribbons stream from shoulders.
Imagine how chic a high school reunion would be dressed by her.
