Calvin Klein, Thom Browne, Khaite, Carolina Herrera Called Standouts in Otherwise Subdued New York Fashion Week

“We’ve got options.”

That alone could have been the mantra for retailers after checking out the fall collections during the latest installment of New York Fashion Week. With oversized statement coats, knitwear galore, dressed-up daywear, slouchy wide-leg pants, and inventive separates, designers served up plenty of reasons for shoppers to ditch their dressed-down joggers, hoodies and puffers.

Veronica Leoni’s debut at Calvin Klein earned buyers’ praise, as did Khaite, Carolina Herrera, Marc Jacobs (who showed a few days before NYFW), Altuzarra, Luar, Zankov and Diotima. Christopher John Rogers’ return to the runway was also a welcome sight for some retailers.

Here, a roundup of what buyers thought about the fall 2025 New York season.

Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion, Neiman Marcus

Favorite collections: Christopher John Rogers’ energetic return featured a sophisticated color palette, unexpected silhouettes, and unique brand signatures. Khaite made a statement with its wearable luxury, blending bold leopard prints, striking boots, and amazing outerwear. Their balanced sculptural precision with luxurious softness offers pieces that are both timeless and unmistakably Khaite. Altuzarra exuded chic elegance, balancing softness with crisp tailoring, highlighted by ethereal organza dresses and show-stopping embellished finale looks. Jonathan Simkhai’s glamorous collection combined striking embellishments with utilitarian fabrics, creating an unexpected contrast that felt fresh and modern. Zankov’s five-year milestone collection played with textures and color combinations that created a visual feast. 

Must-have items: Diotima transformed her signature hand-placed crystal crochet into the chicest cape set. Zankov offered a cozy space-dye stripe maxi cardigan paired with a must-have paillette scarf. Carolina Herrera featured a scoop-neck sculpted black jacket, adorned with gold floral hardware. Altuzarra opened the show with an elegant navy scarf coat that set the tone for the collection.

Mood: Winter weather tried its best to dampen spirits, but it did not deter us from a busy NYFW. With a new guard taking center stage after last fall’s CFDA Awards, it was exciting to see Diotima, Zankov and Luar emerge as some of the week’s most anticipated shows. Design-wise, sportswear and wearability remained the prevailing themes, with the most successful collections leaning into rich textural contrasts.

Newcomers: Veronica Leoni’s debut at Calvin Klein brought a welcome dose of excitement to the calendar, as did Frances Howie’s serene minimal first outing at Fforme, which offered a calm contrast. Campillo’s dramatic show against the downtown sunset was another highlight.

Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer, Mytheresa

Favorite collections: Khaite, Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs truly stood out this season. Khaite’s breathtaking circular stage at the Park Avenue Armory was a masterpiece. It perfectly framed the collection, creating an immersive experience that emphasized the brand’s artistry and innovation. Khaite impressed with its signature blend of modern minimalism and luxurious craftsmanship. Marc Jacobs delivered bold statements that pushed creative boundaries. Calvin Klein’s collection showcased a timeless approach to sleek tailoring and versatile essentials.

Must-have items: The Khaite shearling cropped trench jacket is an absolute showstopper. It marries elegance and edge effortlessly.

Trendspotting: Outerwear is undoubtedly the hero this season, with brands placing a strong emphasis on beautiful, luxurious pieces — think supple shearling and polished leather. Clean silhouettes, heavy layering, and cape-style coats are dominating, while textures are being explored in fresh and elevated ways.

Mood: Minimalism is clearly the reigning theme at NYFW this season. While the collections have been clean, commercial and polished, there’s a lingering sense that New York could use a dash of daring and fun. The city thrives on creativity, and I look forward to seeing designers inject more energy in the future.

Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director, Saks

Favorite collections: Thom Browne is a master storyteller. His mix of tailoring, checks, plaids, stripes, feathers and trompe-l’oeil was dreamy. Cate Holstein delivered a standout collection for Khaite with a confident, bold and cool lineup of sleek leather, leopard, denim, tailoring and hand-fringed knits. Altuzarra delivered a sophisticated, elegant and polished collection of double-faced coats and capes, textured faux fur, shearling and chiffon skirts; Rachel Scott for Diotima expanded her offering of sharp tailored suits, hand-looped fringed knits, signature standout crochet details and dresses; Christopher John Rogers had a joyous return with a kaleidoscope of vibrant colors. Henry Zankov’s five-year anniversary collection continues to reinvent knitwear, with his whimsical, playful use of color, novelty and texture. Luar’s “El Pato” collection was a tour de force and showcased Raul Lopez’s master tailoring and construction. Other top collections: Carolina Herrera, Brandon Maxwell and Jonathan Simkhai.

Trendspotting: For fall, expect oversized toppers, draped dresses with cinched waists, and updated workwear infused with a ’90s bohemian attitude.

Mood: They say fashion is a reflection of the times, and the mood at NYFW was notably subdued. The collections were pared back and refined, with an air of sophistication and polish. Designers harnessed their creativity by staying true to their individual voices and bringing a sense of hope and joy.

Standout newcomers: Fforme, Ashlyn and Taylor Thompson of 5000.

Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew

Favorite collections: Khaite delivered a master class in structured elegance and effortless luxury— bold prints, sleek leather, and sculptural knitwear formed the perfect David Lynch-inspired wardrobe. Thom Browne, as always, presented a cinematic collection, underscored by hope and optimism. Ulla Johnson embraced bohemian glamour, featuring intricate textures and flowing silhouettes in gold, neutrals, and jewel tones. Meanwhile, Carolina Herrera exuded sophistication with sharply tailored dresses and a refined take on sensuality. Tory Burch, Coach and Khaite explored elegance in the everyday, blending streamlined tailoring with luxurious fabrics and Highland-inspired textures.

Must-have items: From an accessories standpoint, Khaite’s latest iteration of the “Cate” bag stood out, reinforcing the brand’s commitment to understated luxury. It pairs effortlessly with the thigh-high boots seen on the runway and the revival of the newspaper boy cap. Veronica Beard’s elongated barn jacket was a season-defining piece. Its structured yet relaxed silhouette felt both polished and practical. Theory’s presentation reaffirmed brown’s dominance for fall. Shearling and leather jackets were standouts, [along with] chunky mixed-media knits at Lafayette 148 and Rag & Bone.

Mood: The highly anticipated return of Calvin Klein under Veronica Leoni’s creative direction was a major highlight, ushering in a fresh era for the iconic brand. A celebratory energy surrounded the new wave of American designers — Luar, Diotima, Zankov and Christopher John Rogers —who have firmly cemented their place on the runways.

Standout newcomers: Raul Lopez (Luar), Rachel Scott (Diotima), Henry Zankov (Zankov) and Christopher John Rogers continue to weave community into their designs. Watching their evolution has been incredible.

Beth Buccini, founder and owner of Kirna Zabête

Favorite collections: Khaite was the highlight. It was such an amazing show. It was also wonderful to see TWP’s second runway show. Trish [Wescoat Pound] continues to be a huge business for us and her clothes keep getting better and better. I also really loved Brandon Maxwell. These three designers show super chic and elevated ways for real women to dress.

Trendspotting: Shearling; leopard; neutrals like brown, gray and oatmeal; luxe fabrics; wrap coats, and great American sportswear.

Must-have items: Khaite’s leopard dress, Carolina Herrera’s black lace skirt and Brave Pudding’s shoes at TWP, which we already have in-store.

Mood: It was definitely one of the most subdued New York Fashion Weeks in awhile. The schedule felt quite light as we were missing both the big names and the new designers. 

Disappointments: It is disappointing that we don’t have a better way to support new talent in New York. The price of showing is so cost-prohibitive. I wish a large company would subsidize a group of new designers in one large empty space for presentations in one day and invite the industry. 

Angela Pieretti, general merchandise manager, women’s, Mitchells

Trendspotting: Overarching — we can still be chic while showing more personality. Play with contrast, tailoring paired with flowing, frayed fil coupe creates movement and texture, gilded pinstripes, slouchy day sparkle, tied-up sweaters on sweaters, peaks of paper leather, add in leopard, bright pops of a sexy orangey red among all the chocolate.

Best newcomers: Fforme is one to watch and the joy Christopher John Rogers brings is needed. 

Must-have items: Khaite’s leather bustier layered over a T-shirt, TWP’s tobacco-colored shearling, Luar’s leather bomber jacket over a plum dress, Michael Kors’ charcoal-colored deep V palette gown and Carolina Herrera’s playful pinstripes with gold roses. I have at least 20 shearling coat pics in my phone after the last few days that we need. The edit will be a struggle.

Mood: Exploratory. All the debuts, returns and shifts we’re experiencing are making space to discover.  Upside to the unknown will be the new talent that gets to shine.

Disappointments: That every show wasn’t held at Wes Gordon’s choice for Carolina Herrera —  48 floors up with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking our beautiful city!

Ali Fitzgerald, buying manager for Net-a-porter

Favorite collections: Veronica Leoni for Calvin Klein had a buzzy, star-studded debut where she focused on ’90s minimal, wardrobe staples that we loved.  Khaite is a fan favorite every season with their ’60s-feel leopard calf hair styles, pops of red leather pants, and leather bomber jackets that stole the show. 

Trendspotting: Leather — lots of it! Nineties tailoring, slip-dressing and chunky gold jewelry accents.

Best newcomers: Kallmeyer. Daniella creates incredibly beautiful menswear inspired tailoring. 

Mood: Pragmatic

April Hennig, chief merchant at Moda Operandi

Favorite collections: Khaite was a standout and continues to assert confidence each season. From the dramatic setting to the styling, the whole presentation was powerful and luxurious. Altuzarra, Carolina Herrera, Brandon Maxwell and Simkhai [earned high marks]. Diotima, Christopher John Rogers and Luar were other favorites.  

Best newcomers: Kallmeyer presented a clear vision for the intellectual woman’s day to night with impressive poise and focus. Frances Howie’s debut at Fforme was a really chic lineup, injecting just enough texture and novelty to streamlined and artful silhouettes. Colleen Allen is a rising star. Zankov’s irreverent and eclectic collection sparked joy and energy. Ashlyn found her stride with the right counterbalance of soft femininity. Heirlome continues to impress with its understated and artful chic with just the right dose of craft. 

Trendspotting: Super luxe, statement-making outerwear — Toscana shearlings and draped leather at Khaite, the jaguar coat at Brandon Maxwell and double-faced cashmere capes at Altuzarra. Polished grunge emerged as a subtle sensibility, suggested by the argyles and plaids at Zankov, Khaite and Brandon Maxwell, the ubiquity of leather both polished and distressed, distressed knits at Simkhai, and corduroy at Kallmeyer. Spring’s boho theme lives on and is reinterpreted for the season with added sophistication at Ulla Johnson and Altuzarra. Polished neutrals reigned at TWP, Brandon, Kallmeyer, Khaite, Altuzarra and others, while eccentric color combinations at Zankov and Christopher John Rogers made for a welcome jolt of energy. 

Mood: The mood of the week was earnest and reflective, making it clear that New York designers are navigating increasingly uncertain times. Designers answered the moment by emphasizing practical wearability as paramount over elaborate storytelling — doubling down on what New York designers do so well.

Disappointments: The collections generally aired on the side of wearability and practicality over whimsy and fantasy, at a time that clients may be looking to fashion for a sense of escapism. With such a strong emphasis on daywear separates, the collections fell short of some of the special dresses and cocktail options we are always looking for. 

Courtney Grant, senior vice president, buying at Elyse Walker

Favorite collections:  My favorite collections this week are Khaite, Kallmeyer and Altuzarra.

Standout items:  Standout pieces I saw this week were the two-tone belted shearlings at Altuzarra and the leopards and argyles that walked at Khaite.

Best newcomers:  Kallmeyer continues to deliver with the strength and confidence of a designer far beyond her newcomer status. The leather pieces shown, particularly the trench that walked on Sarita Choudhury, was exceptional.

Mood: Overall the mood of New York collections I have seen so far I would describe as strong and irreverent 

Janelle Lloyd, women’s fashion director, Bloomingdale’s

Favorite collections: Brandon Maxwell continues to create the city girl’s dream wardrobe with a host of expertly layered looks to take her from desk to dinner; Altuzarra’s impossibly chic pieces were an elegant mix of soft and structure; Christopher John Rogers’ return to NYFW was a joyful evolution of his signature design sense. 

Standout items: Caping, draping and enveloping silhouettes ruled the collections. Versions of a leather bomber walked runway after runway, making it an “It” jacket for fall. Pencil skirt suits felt like a fresh, new silhouette on the block.

Best newcomers: Veronica Leoni’s debut of sleek silhouettes was a take on American heritage that felt both modern and timeless. It was a refined and confident collection, a welcome and wearable vision for Calvin Klein’s future.

Mood: NYFW this season exuded polish, with collections that largely prioritized wearability without sacrificing style. Designers are embracing elevated, everyday pieces that offer a seamless blend of fashion and functionality.

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, women’s fashion and director of store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman

Favorite collections: Khaite was the standout show and collection of the week, showing a new kind of cool glamour and polish in an intense and dramatic setting. Ulla Johnson struck an emotional chord with her rich collection. Thom Browne is in a much-needed superlative creative stratosphere. 

Trendspotting: Outerwear was the standout category with shearling variations most important. Other items and trends to watch: leather dressing, asymmetric hemlines, shawl wraps, nipped-waist tailoring, the bomber, autumnal  colors, and a touch of needed shimmer.

Favorite newcomers:  Relative newcomers Ashlyn and TWP made strong impressions with a sensuous and modern originality at Ashlyn and with ultimate wearability and cool practicality at TWP.

Mood: It’s been interesting to see how the New York designers reacted in a time of unprecedented uncertainty and change. Trend-proof and enduring, eased and softened dressing in luxed-up materials prevailed from the more established designers while the new guard embraced more risk and experimentation. Accolades to Diotima, Christopher John Rogers, Zankov and Luar. 

Rickie De Sole, vice president, fashion director, Nordstrom

Favorite collections:  Thom Browne, Zankov, Diotima, Khaite, Altuzarra, Carolina Herrera 

Trendspotting: The biggest  trends of the week made bold yet playful statements. Argyle knits were everywhere, offering a fresh, preppy-meets-whimsical twist on the classic pattern, while leopard print at Khaite and Brandon Maxwell reaffirmed its status as a timeless favorite. 

Standout items:  Statement outerwear took center stage, with standout pieces like Thom Browne’s sculptural curved overcoats and patchwork designs, alongside Altuzarra’s luxurious shearling styles. A striking coat is shaping up to be fall’s ultimate investment. Heels are making a comeback after seasons of flats, ranging from practical pumps with subtle decorative details to bold, statement-making heights. 

Favorite newcomers: Emily Dawn Long impressed us with her focus on textiles and craft. Her menswear-inspired shirting and vintage-inspired sculptural accessories bring a fresh yet timeless energy that feels purposeful and wearable. KUR showcased handmade, light and effortlessly timeless pieces. Visiting Kasuni Rathnasuriya’s showroom was a highlight, and we can’t wait to share her beautiful craft with our customers. 

Mood: There was a sense of intimacy and transformation. A lighter show schedule allowed for deeper engagement in showrooms and presentations, where collections that felt personal and meaningful truly stood out. Female designers led the charge with powerful narratives. Veronica Leoni’s debut at Calvin to a stellar lineup of talent — Catherine Holstein, Tory Burch, Ulla Johnson, Trish Wescoat Pound, Sandy Liang, Hillary Taymour, Rachel Scott and Frances Howie for Fforme — many explored themes of matriarchy, resilience and the rise of the “fempire.” Some unforgettable moments were Luar’s Raul Lopez’ high-octane risk-taking show and Thom Browne’s theatrical paper bird sky and playfully colorful collection.