As she’s done the past few seasons Daniella Kallmeyer hosted a Café Kallmeyer event, this time hosting at her studio — a more intimate setting — to showcase her pre-fall collection. Inspired by Pierre Cardin and Fortuny she deemed the collection ornate minimalism. “Not minimalism in a way that it’s without things, or quiet luxury, but really just paring something all the way back until it’s perfection and making it essential.” As a term, minimalism is a bit of a catch-all in fashion — often an oversimplification — but there’s so much more to a Kallmeyer garment than just that.
She played with color a bit more than in the past due to a quick trip to Los Angeles’ Getty Museum. It helped her explore her pieces in shades of golden yellow on a diaphanous subtly sheer colored dress or on dusty light blue shirt/jacket combo with a triangle shape. Sporty details have been bubbling up the past few seasons and now she has gone all-in with a group on iridescent taffeta garments that lead with sporty chic ease, albeit with modern sculptural moments.
“Gestures,” as the designer often talked about, are key. She obsesses on how her garment moves through the world but lets the customer ultimately decide how to bring them to life. “I myself like to undo things,” she explained. “I really wanted her to feel like she doesn’t have to be so tightly wound or that she doesn’t have to wear beautiful on beautiful,” she said of a pair of precisely ripped jeans in a light wash. Other standouts: a yellow print on a wrap dress and tunic, super soft cashmere knits and a LBD in satin, all takes on the thoughtful-yet make-it-yours spirit of the collection.
The last year has seen a lot of eyes on the brand, and rightfully so, first with her tailoring — it’s here with a smaller blazer, vest updates and more wide-leg pants — but the brand has charted a wide path with much room to grow. Beaded bucket hats, a cord belt, a oversize beaded market totes styled over a leather bag — all are hints of what is to come. Each new accessory has a sort of “Where did you get that? I’ve never considered that before vibe.” That is Kallmeyer’s true sweet spot, making you feel powerful in a piece you didn’t know you needed, till now.
