The message Tod’s and the brand’s creative director Matteo Tamburini wished to convey for spring was loud and clear.
A monumental sculpture by artist Lorenzo Quinn was positioned across the expansive location, Milan’s Macchi foundry — two giant plaster hands gripping crossed leather bands, which the artist explained symbolized Tod’s craftsmanship, Italian know-how and the significance of manual work. Flanking the artwork, the company’s artisans, all in white frocks, were seen hand-stitching Tod’s signature gommino mocassins.
The stage was set for Tamburini’s celebration of “Artisanal Intelligence,” emphasizing the value of the individual — a message reiterated by Tod’s chairman and chief executive officer Diego Della Valle on the sidelines of the show.
Sure, there was leather, as is par for the course at Tod’s, but rendered light, befitting the season, as in a pretty green pleated dress. His starting point was a journey along the Mediterranean coast, “starting from Italy, of course,” said Tamburini with a smile, which meant “a more relaxed approach in terms of shapes and materials compared with fall.” On his mood board were photos by Luigi Ghirri, the rarefied atmosphere of the beaches an inspiration for the designer.
This led to patterns that were new at Tod’s — stripes on crisp cotton and checks printed inside out on very light cotton skirts and tops, which had a veiled effect.
Tamburini for his coed collection revisited the trenchcoat in cotton and in leather with new fluid volumes in various lengths. They looked chic, practical and comfortable at the same time. Windbreakers were developed in resin-coated cotton or super light napa.
More formfitting were the suits with cropped jackets.
Sandals were supersized and flat, and several bags and pumps came in reptile, ostrich and crocodile hides — one was worn by Naomi Campbell in a new bucket bag shape — further raising the luxury level of the collection.
Tod’s signature gommino pebble-soled loafer was presented also as a sabot, with a more pronounced toe, and some models featured gold metal rings — a detail that also embellished some of the dresses.
With his second collection for Tod’s, Tamburini proved he is embracing the brand’s world, aesthetic and values while pushing the envelop farther, experimenting with volumes, fabrics and fits.
