The jewelry industry turned out in their finery Friday for the 24th iteration of the Gem Awards, which wound up celebrating both established and emerging talent.
“Over 24 years ago, a group of industry leaders got together and established the Gem Awards as a platform to shine the light on a few areas of fine jewelry. It’s a joy to carry on this tradition with tonight’s honorees and nominees,” said chair Marion Fasel when kicking off the event’s seated portion at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York. “Tonight, we are building on the Gem Awards’ legacy and continuing to expand our community with the inaugural David Yurman Gem Awards grant.”
The first honoree of the evening was Ana Khouri, who was introduced by Linda Evangelista.
“I’ve seen how a silhouette, an image or even a haircut can change how the world sees beauty,” the supermodel said. “However, it is very rare to meet an artist who doesn’t just dance within a medium, but also redefines its boundaries.”
Khouri first met Evangelista when they attended the 2024 Met Gala together, and Khouri was the first independent female designer to receive the award, Evangelista said.
“I have long admired how you embody the transformative nature of design, something that has always been at the heart of my work,” Khouri said, returning the love to her presenter.
Linda Evangelista
Matt Borkowski/BFA.com
Khouri said she aims to “create objects that carry this period of art, and yet live intimately with the person who wears them. I have always looked up to the great artists who blurred those boundaries.”
Looking back on his own early days of his career, David Yurman talked about learning the ropes “step by step, meeting customers, making new adjustments and seeing what was right,” he said. “Those early years were challenging. I understand how challenging they were, wanting mentorship. I think designers need greater tools and support to grow.”
The $50,000 grant plus mentorship from the Yurman team went to Johnny Nelson, who kept his remarks short. “I’m very grateful to receive this mentorship and to receive this grant,” he said. “I’m grateful to have a mentor like David Yurman to trust in my mission.”
The Gem Award for Media Excellence was presented by previous honoree Sam Broekema, who awarded it to WWD’s senior fashion market editor of accessories Thomas Waller.
Waller noted that he used to intern for fellow nominee Nicole Chapoteau of Vanity Fair, while the other nominee, Gem & Jewel magazine’s Emili Vesilind, previously worked for WWD. “I’m only as good as my sources, and that’s you guys — the retailers, the designers, the executives in this room tonight. Thank you for trusting me with your stories and your revenue figures,” Waller said.
In addition to thanking his team, he saved his best for last. “The last person I have to thank is my mom.”
Sam Broekema and Thomas Waller
Matteo Prandoni/BFA.com
The Gem Award for Retail Innovation went to the London-based Jessica McCormack, which recently opened its first Stateside boutique on Madison Avenue. “At the heart of the brand is craftsmanship, which could be witnessed firsthand at the jewelers’ workshop,” said a video preceding the announcement.
“Her vision continues to challenge us to think about what a jewelry house could be,” said an employee attending and accepting the award in McCormack’s stead. “Warm, personal and always a little unexpected.”
Silvia Furmanovich, the Brazil-based jeweler, took home the Gem Award for Jewelry Design. “Every piece is the result of many cultures in many traditions coming together. Over the years, I have had the privilege of working with extraordinary artists around the world, from masters in the Amazon to embroidery in India,” Furmanovich said.
“They are the keepers of these beautiful traditions. Together, we transform materials, techniques and stories into something new in a world that sometimes feels full of discord. I believe creativity has a quiet but powerful way to bring people together. For me, art has always been a way through, a way to transform differences into dialogue,” she continued.
The last award of the evening, the Gem Award for Lifetime Achievement, went to Mark and Candy Udell of London Jewelers, which is celebrating its centennial in 2026.
The duo was introduced by Verdura’s James Haag, who recalled meeting the Udells three decades ago. “They radiated warmth and familiarity and it was like love at first sight,” Haag said. “Over the years, just by being close to them I learned everything from them — first and foremost, importantly, always do the right thing. Gain people’s trust, guard that trust with your life, build a sense of community around you, and take the 300 people who work with you along for the ride.”
Mark Udell, the chief executive officer who joined the business founded by his grandfather in 1973, has grown it to now entail 18 stores.
“We never could have imagined this when this journey began. We didn’t build this company thinking about recognition, we built it thinking about people and relationships,” Candy Udell said in her acceptance. “Mark and I eat, breathe and live our work every single day, as does the fourth generation.”
Before bringing the family’s fourth and fifth generations onstage for a photo op, Mark Udell added, “Candy and I have always felt a deep sense of responsibility as the third generation to carry the London legacy forward. One of the proudest moments of our lives has been welcoming the fourth generation into the business.
“They bring fresh ideas, energy, enthusiasm and innovation while honoring the principles that built London Jewelers,” he said. “Watching them grow into leadership roles with such passion is incredibly meaningful to us.”
